In this blog post, we will walk you through the process of choosing the perfect bike size for your height and inseam. We’ll also provide some tips on how to adjust your seat and handlebars so that you can ride in comfort.

Let’s get started!

Why You Shouldn’t Use The Recommended Size from Bike Manufacturers

Size charts provided by bike manufacturers are not always the best way to decide the right bike size for you. They might be good for the “average” people, but almost no one is perfectly average.

Everyone’s body is different and what may work for one person may not work for another.

Let’s first look at the Specialized bike size chart:

According to this chart, a 5’7″-5’9″ or 170-175 cm person should ride a size 54 Tarmac. This is likely one size too big. In the real world, a size 54 Specialized Tarmac bike would be too big for a person with a height of 170 cm.

So what will happen if you buy a size 54 Tarmac anyway? You will get various problems like shoulder pain, neck pain, and saddle sores, among many other things. In short, you won’t enjoy it.

Let’s see another examples from Trek. If you use their Size Finder tool to find out your size, they will likely recommend you a bike that is one or two sizes too big. They are worse than Specialized in this case.

So why do such big brands like Specialized and Trek do this?

No idea. But one reason I keep hearing is that a bike one size too big is “safer” for beginners because it has a higher stack and is easier to control with a wider handlebar. This is true to an extent, but for people who ride their bikes for more than an hour per session, you should get the correct bike size.

Use Geometry Charts to Compare Bike Sizes Between Brands

Some bike brands use numbers like 48, 52, 54, 56, 58, and so on to indicate their size. Others use letters like XS, S, M, L, and XL.

These two different styles can’t be compared to each other. And, even if two brands use the same format, you should never compare two bikes from different brands using only their size charts.

For example, a Colnago V3Rs size 52s is way bigger than a Trek Emonda size 52 because they use different measurements to decide that number. And a size S Canyon Ultimate is actually more comparable to a size M of Giant TCR.

See how annoying that is?

Okay, so how can you tell which bike is the right size for you?

Use geometry charts.

Geometry charts are like the blueprint of a bike frame. They show all the key dimensions and tube angles of a particular model, including things like the head angle, seat tube angle, stack, and reach, among many others.

Geometry charts are the only reliable way to tell how two bikes of different brands and models compare in size.

So, disregard all predetermined sizing options from every brand, and just use the geometry chart when you’re looking for a new bike.

The Correct Step to Choose The Right Bike Size

This is how to find the correct bike size for you:

1. Measure Your Height and Inseam

You can’t find a bike size based on height alone or inseam alone, both should be used together.

“Height” is pretty straightforward and most people already know their own height. “Inseam” in cycling is basically your leg length measured from the crotch. If inseam or inside leg measurement is new to you, here’s the easy way to measure yours. All you need is a hardcover book, or something of similar thickness, a pencil, and a tape measure.

To find your inseam, simply hold the book between your legs with the spine facing up. Make sure the book is pushed against your crotch but don’t push too hard. While barefooted, measure from the floor to the top of the spine.

If you can’t find someone to help you measure, face a wall and hold the book against the wall. Make sure the book is straight and all the wall-facing side is in contact with the wall. Make a mark at the top part of your book on your wall using a pencil. Finally, measure the pencil mark from the floor.

Repeat this process three times (or more if needed) and average out the results to get the most accurate measurement.

Now that you know your inseam, calculate your inseam-to-height ratio by dividing your inseam by your height. If your number is below 0.45, then you have short legs than average people, and if your number is above 0.47, then you have long legs.

Keep these measurements for now as they will be useful later.

2. Find Your Starting Point Using This Bike Frame Geometry Chart

Below you will find not the predefined size chart that is commonly found in other guides or bike brand websites. Those are arbitrary numbers that have no standards in any way. Instead, this is a geometry recommendation.

As said earlier, all bike brands use different systems and inconsistent numbering between brands, using a bike size chart might mislead you. That’s why instead of telling you the predefined size (S, M, L, 52, 54, 56, etc.) we’ll use the three bike measurements that matter the most when choosing a bike size:

• Effective top tube length: The horizontal distance from the head tube to the seat tube. Some bikes use this measurement as their size in centimeters.
• Stack: The vertical distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the head tube.
• Reach: The horizontal distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the head tube.

The three measurements dictate how large a bike is – there are others measurements like head tube and seat tube angle, but these do not vary much between bikes. Unlike a size chart, a geometry chart is consistent between brands so once you know the right geometry for you, you can easily choose any bike from any brand.

Keep in mind that the following table is a general guideline only to find your starting point.

A few things to keep in mind based on the table above:

• This table is just a starting point of guidance. In reality, there is a chance that you might fit better with a frame one size smaller or bigger.
  • If you have short legs (lower than 0.45 inseam-to-height ratio) you might need to size down
  • If you have long legs (higher than 0.47 inseam-to-height ratio) you might need to size up or choose a different bike with a higher stack number
• The stack and reach value is most important for performance-oriented or aero road bikes. This type of bike usually has the longest and lowest front-end, making it hard to find the right fit. For endurance road bikes or gravel bikes, you can usually get away with only using the effective top tube length because these types of bikes are made to be more relaxed and upright.
• If you are in-between two sizes, always go with the lower size. Your body can tolerate a lower stack more than a longer reach. Also, you can use a longer stem (and maybe a longer seat post) on a smaller frame to increase the total size of your bike so that it fits you.
• Some bikes have sloping top tubes, some are more horizontal. On different bikes of a similar size, top tubes can have a big difference in length depending on the slope. So, when you compare different bike brands’ geometry charts, make sure to look for the effective or horizontal top tube length. If they use a different term, look at the frame geometry diagram which is usually included on the chart.

Here’s an example of how to find your bike size using the geometry chart:

If you are 183 cm or 6 feet tall, the chart above says you need a bike with a 545–565 mm effective top tube length, >547 mm stack, and <400mm reach. Now look at the Specialized Tarmac geometry chart below:

Based on our recommendation above, a 56 Tarmac might be your size. However, since the reach is too close to the limit, you might want to try a different bike with a shorter reach and higher stack instead if you have proportionally long legs – based on your inseam-to-height ratio.

3. Go to Some Bike Brands’ Websites and Compare the Geometry Charts

Now, hopefully, you have several options you have in mind and are not fixated on one bike brand only because they might not have the right fit for you.

For example, some bikes like the Specialized Tarmac are known for being very low and long on the front end. It is a great-looking bike, but not too beginner-friendly.

If your legs are proportionally longer than the average person’s (inseam-to-height ratio > 0.47), that means your reach is proportionally shorter. So, it might be worth looking for a different bike brand that has a shorter reach and higher stack. Or choose an endurance-oriented road bike instead.

Even if you plan to buy at a local bike shop, always check the geometry charts on your own first.

Local bike shop doesn’t usually have a professional bike fitter, and it’s not uncommon that they recommend you a bike that’s one or two sizes too big because they don’t know any better or they don’t have the right size in stock and still want to close a sale.

It’s a good idea to try the bike first if you have the chance. But a bike that’s only one size too big won’t probably be noticeable on a five-minute ride (even though it can make you miserable on a one-hour ride or more) especially if it’s your first bike.

Tip #1: Get a bike fit first

If you have a body functionality problem, are less flexible, or are very unfit, you should think about getting a professional bike fit first before buying an expensive bike. The less “average” you are compared to other people, the more problems you will have on the bike over a long period of riding.

Don’t worry, it is normal to get a bike fit even if you don’t yet have a bike. In fact, some bike fitters recommend doing so because buying the wrong bike size is a costly mistake.

Tip #2: What if you already have a bike and it feels too big or too small

Fortunately, apart from the bike frame itself, the rest of your bicycle is adjustable (to a point). It might cost you money to buy the new part, but you might not need a new bicycle frame.

So, first, assess how you feel on the bike.

Is the seat post too high or not high enough? This is the easiest one to fix because most bikes have a decent amount of seat post adjustment. You can also usually purchase a shorter or longer seat post if your current one doesn’t fit you.

Do you feel too low on the front end and it’s causing neck pain? Then you need to raise your handlebar. If you still have spacers on top of your stem, then raise the stem by moving the spacer below the stem. If not, then flip your stem upside down.

What if your bike feels too long for you? You can try using a shorter stem. The minimum recommended length for a road bike is 80 mm and most road bikes come with a 90 or 100 mm stem, so you have 1-2 cm room for adjustment.

Alternatively, get a new handlebar with a shorter reach. Depending on your current handlebar, you might be able to find another model with a 5-10 mm shorter reach. They are more expensive than a stem, though.

As a last resort, you can also tilt the handlebar backward so that the shifter hoods are closer to you.

What you should NOT do if you feel your bike feels too long is to push the saddle forward too much. Sure, by pushing the saddle forward you sit closer to the handlebar – effectively shortening the reach. However, doing that will cause arm, neck, and shoulder pain because you’re shifting your weight forward.

Finally, if the standover is too high, meaning you need to lean your bike sideways when you put both of your feet down because the top tube is hitting your crotch, then the frame is just simply too big for you and you need a new frame.

After all, bikes with a drop bar look more aggressive than normal bikes and it puts the rider in such a hunched position that you might think that can’t be comfortable for the back!

In this article, we address some common misconceptions about drop bars and whether you really should avoid drop bars and opt for a flat-bar road bike instead.

Let’s dive into it. 

Myths about drop bars 

A drop bar is normally narrower than a flat bar, it is curved downwards and allows you to place your hands on the drops to get even lower on the bike. Drop bars are more common on road and gravel bikes and flat bars are more common on MTBs and motorcycles, while commuter and utility bikes use a variation of flat bars.

And in case you’re curious:

Yes, there are road bikes with flat handlebars, though they are not very common and people tend to call them hybrid bikes. You can change drop bars on a road bike with a flat bar. To do that you will need to buy flat-bar-compatible shifters and brake levers.

The question about flat bar on a road bike is often asked by people who have never tried a drop bar road bike or have only ridden an MTB and motorcycle because of these myths about drop bars:

Myth 1: Drop bars are uncomfortable for your hands

Drop bars are actually more comfortable on your hands because the width is more or less equal to the width of your shoulders and it puts your hands in a natural position.

Some commuter bikes also have their handlebars curved backward to simulate a more natural hand position, because flat bars aren’t actually that comfortable for long-distance riding.

Also, thanks to their multiple hand positions on a drop bar, you can switch your hand position when your shoulders start to get sore.

Once you’re used to it, you will quickly realize that a drop bar bike is actually more comfortable than a traditional flat handlebar.

Myth 2: Drop bar handling is worse than flat bar

This is kind of true. Bikes with drop bars are not necessarily harder to handle on the road, but they are harder to steer than bikes with flat bars, and there are several reasons for this.

First, drop bars are usually much narrower than flat bars. The narrower your handlebars, the harder it will be to steer your bike. This is also true when comparing flat bars with flat bars.

Second, road bikes usually have longer stems than MTBs. Longer stems make steering harder, but they are more stable at a high speed. Third, the geometry of road bikes itself made the steering feels locked in on a straight line than an MTB.

Because of the second and third reasons, many people think that road bikes with drop bars have worse handling than MTBs with flat bars. That’s true if you ride a road bike in the mountains, but you don’t. Both bikes are just made for different terrain and riding a bike on the road doesn’t require you to make maneuvers or quick turns.

You don’t make a turn on a road bike by steering the handlebar. Instead, you tilt your body in the direction where you want to go.

Myth 3: Drop bars make your back hurt

Bikes with drop bars usually put the rider in a more aggressive and hunched position, but the type of handlebars itself doesn’t determine the aggressiveness.

The aggressiveness of a bike is decided by the frame geometry, length, angle of the stem, and the number of spacers below your stem.

So yeah, road bikes with drop bars are more aggressive, but changing them to a flat bar won’t make them less aggressive.

Generally speaking, road bikes come into geometry categories: endurance and race. Endurance road bikes are more upright than race bikes. If you want a road bike that doesn’t hurt your back, an endurance road bike is what you might need. 

Myth 4: Drop bars are not good for off-road 

Depends on how off-the-road it is. Drop bars are still good for light gravel roads, which is why all gravel bikes use drop bars. That said, if you want to go mountain biking, you definitely shouldn’t use a drop bar bike.

Myth 5: The brakes on drop bars are harder to reach

People with small hands might find it hard to reach brake levers on their road bikes with drop bars when it’s on the standard setup. The thing is, you can easily reduce the reach of the brake lever with a few turns of screws.

Myth 6: Drop bars are bad for beginners

Because bicycles for kids use flat bars, many people think that drop bars are too advanced for them and not beginner-friendly. While it’s true that you should learn to ride a bike with a flat bar because you will need the extra steering capability, it doesn’t take long to get used to using drop bars, ride them for a few minutes and you’ll get used.

What beginner bike riders actually need is less aggressive frame geometry that provides stable handling and a relaxed position, regardless of the type of handlebar.

Why you probably shouldn’t get a flat bar bike for cycling on a paved road

There are serious drawbacks to using flat bars for road biking. Here are some of them:

1. As said earlier, a flat bar by itself doesn’t make the bike more comfortable. It’s the opposite. If you want a more comfortable and less aggressive ride, use a shorter stem and flip the stem to increase stack height. Also, get an endurance road bike rather than a race bike.

2. If you already have a bike with a drop bar and want to change to a flat bar, you will need to replace not just the bar but also the shifters and brake lever to flat bar-compatible ones. This will cost you more. It’s so much cheaper to get a different stem if you don’t think your existing bike is comfortable.

3. Flat bars are slower than drop bars because of the wider grip and lack of drop position. On the road, whether you are riding for the sake of enjoyment or commuting, you will want to go faster and spend less energy. Drop bars are a better choice for this reason.

4. The wider grip on a flat bar is more tiring for your shoulders and arms on long-distance riding. Plus, you can’t change your hand position on a flat bar. Some people use bar ends on their flat bars because of this, but that just makes them a wider drop bar.

How to change your drop bar bike to a flat bar

The good news is if you already have a drop bar bike and still for some reason want to change to a flat bar, you can. But to make it work, you will need flat-bar-compatible shifters and brakes.

Have a look at one of these, depending on your current groupset:

• Shimano 2×11
• Shimano 2×10
• SRAM 2×11

Unfortunately, if your bike has a 2×12 or others, you will need to replace the whole set. Either get a 2×11 with flat-bar-compatible shifters and brakes or get a mountain bike groupset that is specifically made for flat bars.

After that, it’s a matter of removing the current components and installing the new components. This can be complicated for beginners, so you might want to bring your bike to a local bike shop.

What about hybrid and fitness bikes?

Hybrid and fitness bikes are two more options to consider if you don’t already have a bike and want to ride on the road with flat bars.

They are great for people who need a bike for commuting and leisure, but not for people who are road cycling with the intent to race.

The geometry of hybrid and fitness bikes is typically more upright than gravel bikes and endurance bikes. So, if you have a bad back and hunched position is not for you, they can be the right option for you.

For the rest of us, keep in mind that hybrid and fitness bikes aren’t made for speed. They are slower than a true road bike because of their weight and lower-level components. Also, nowadays road bikes are much more comfortable and forgiving which makes them good for recreational riding too.

However, this uncomfortable soreness doesn’t have to stop you from enjoying a bike ride. And, it doesn’t have to land you in the doctor’s office either.

First, take steps to prevent saddle sores from happening. But, if they do, be prepared to easily treat them. Know what saddle sores are, how to treat them, and ultimately how to prevent them by following this helpful information and tips.

What is a Saddle Sore

Basically, a saddle sore is a lesion that causes pain or discomfort in the undercarriage area, where the cycling shorts’ chamois makes contact with the rider’s body. These uncomfortable sores occur on the buttocks, upper thighs, groin, or perineum. The pain is usually the result of ongoing pressure or chafing caused by the saddle, also known as the bike seat.

Combine a warm environment that is moist from sweat with bacteria, and now you’ve got a full-out breeding ground for bacteria or fungi. If there is any break in the skin, abrasion, or inflamed hair follicle, saddle sores are likely to develop more rapidly.

Saddle sores range from skin irritation to an inflamed hair follicle or infection caused by bacteria. These sores can cause simple discomfort or become more severe open wounds that can cause abscesses. Sometimes, they will require antibiotics, or in the worst-case scenario, surgery.  Although, thankfully they are usually benign and go away fairly quickly with proper treatment.

Cyclists are likely to develop saddle sores because of the friction between the saddle and the body’s undercarriage. Any break in the skin will allow bacteria to get in and multiply.

Saddle sores show up in many different forms. A saddle sore may be skin irritation, abrasion similar to a rug burn, and small rash-like bumps that resemble pimples. In extreme cases, saddle sores can turn into an abscess or infection.

Saddle sores are usually categorized into four different main types:

Chafing

Chafing is a common skin issue that happens when repetitive friction meats moisture. It happens when a part of the body is repeatedly rubbed against the saddle or bike seat. Because of the motion of the legs when pedaling, chafing usually occurs on the inner thighs.

This type of saddle sore may be the result of poorly-fitted bicycle shorts, shorts that are made of a material that isn’t allowed to breathe sufficiently, or an ill-fitted bike.

Chafing can cause the skin to sting or burn, or even cause a mild, red rash. In severe cases, chafing can cause swelling, crusting, or bleeding.

Skin Ulceration

When chafing becomes so severe that a layer of skin is removed, the layers underneath become extremely vulnerable to bacteria growth. This type of saddle sore is known as skin ulceration.

With skin ulceration, you may lose the outer layer of skin, and have redness, or have pain. Since ulcers can develop into serious skin infections, it’s important to keep the area dry and clean.

Skin ulceration can be caused by prolonged periods of poor blood flow to a specific area of the body which can happen because of infection, immobility, or conditions affecting blood vessels such as diabetes. Cyclists sometimes experience this when on a long ride or if the bike seat is not fitted properly.  

Folliculitis

Folliculitis is inflammation at the base of a hair follicle and is very common, especially when a hair follicle becomes irritated from friction. It looks like white or red pimples and raised skin dots.

This type of saddle sore is often caused when bacteria or fungi are left to build and spread. Sometimes folliculitis is not painful. Other times, it may itch or even swell.

Folliculitis is more prone to happen after the hairs have been shaved right before a ride. But, it can happen regardless of whether the hair has been newly removed or not.

Often folliculitis goes away on its own after a couple of weeks. However, if the hair follicles instead become infected, folliculitis may turn into boils, also called furuncles.

Boils or Furuncles

If an inflamed hair follicle becomes infected with a specific type of bacteria known as staphylococcus, it can become a painful pus-filled infection called a furuncle.

Furuncles, or boils, are skin irritations that are filled with pus, feel firm to the touch, and are painful. They begin to form around the base of a hair follicle. If there is a collection of boils connected underneath the skin it is called a carbuncle.

Boils form under the skin when bacteria infect and inflame one or more hair follicles. A boil will start out as a red and tender lump that fills with pus, grows, and eventually ruptures or is drained by a doctor. Never try to pop a boil yourself. Instead, use a hot compress to allow the sore to drain on its own.

What Causes Saddle Sores

Simply put, saddle sores are caused by excessive skin friction with the saddle. Often, this friction could be avoided by making sure the bicycle is properly fitted to the rider.

Even with a proper bike fit, a small number of people can still get saddle sores. This usually happens to new cyclists who ride longer than their body is adapted to. The longer the bike ride, the more likely you will develop saddle sores.

Why Chamois Cream and New Saddle Won’t Help

An ill-fitted bike is the most common cause of saddle sores.

Many people recommend using chamois cream, buying shorts with better padding, or buying a new bike seat to solve saddle sores, but these steps won’t solve the problem if the bike doesn’t fit properly. Sure, they can make the bike ride more comfortable, but the best way to prevent saddle sores is to make sure the bicycle is fitted properly in the first place.

If the bike is properly fitted, you shouldn’t need these extra measures to prevent developing saddle sores.

If you’re having a recurring saddle sore, it’s worth it to make an appointment with a professional bike fitter.

How to Prevent Saddle Sores Caused by an Ill-Fitted Bike

Making sure your bike is fitted properly is the best way to drastically reduce the risk of developing saddle sores. Here are a few tips to make sure your bike fits you:

Adjust Bike Seat Height

If you’re having one-sided saddle sores, this is the most likely reason why.

If the saddle is set too high that it’s hard for both legs to reach the bottom pedal stroke, most cyclists will sit asymmetrically on the saddle instead of in the center of the seat. Doing so will reduce the reach of the dominant leg to the pedal.

On the other side, sitting asymmetrically causes the non-dominant leg not to be able to reach the bottom pedal stroke very easily, and the cyclist needs to drop the hip in order to reach it. The act of dropping the hip creates excessive friction around the sit bone on the non-dominant side.

Here’s the easy way to find the right saddle height:

As a side note, saddle height being too low won’t likely cause saddle sores or other major problems. So, when in doubt, just set your saddle height lower than you might expect.

Reduce the Handlebar Reach

The reach of a bike has to do with how far away the position of your shifters is on the handlebar and how stretched you are on the bicycle.

If the reach of the bike is too long, cyclists will tend to sit forward on the narrow part of the saddle. The result is that the bones used to sit are not properly supported by the saddle.

Another sign that the handlebar reach is too long is a pain in the neck, shoulders, or arms during a long ride.

Proper Saddle Tilt

As the name implies, the saddle tilt is the degree to which the seat is tilted up or down. Ensure the saddle tilt is set up properly according to your specific saddle’s instructions.

The proper tilt will usually be flat on the sitting area or just slightly tilted down if your frontal area is low. Never tilt the seat more than 2 degrees. To avoid saddle sores, never tilt it up.

Some apps on your smartphone can help you measure the angle of your saddle.

Proper Shoe Cleats Placement

If you’re using cycling shoes with cleats, make sure the cleats aren’t fitted too far forward.

Shoe cleats too far forward could cause instability on the ankle, knees, and hips. If the cyclist’s body is not stable or rocking too much, more skin will rub against the saddle and creating friction.

Generally, the center of the pedal spindle should be a couple of centimeters behind your feet’s balls. On SPD-SL and Look cleats, there is a line on the side to mark where the center of the pedal spindle is located:

When in doubt, place your cleats as far back as your shoes allow them. Placing cleats further back will allow your feet to be more stable. The drawback is that it will hinder your ability to make a quick acceleration, which should be fine if you’re not a racer.

Proper Saddle Width and Thickness of the Padding

Don’t be fooled into thinking the wider and thicker the seat, the more cushioned and comfortable the ride will be. While extra cushion or width may feel good for a very short ride, ultimately it could be the cause of a saddle sore.

If the seat is too wide, it will get in the way of your thighs when you start to pedal.

If the seat is too thick and soft, the sit bones won’t be able to properly support your body and it will cause pressure around the sit bones which will, in turn, create more friction and cause chafing.

Finding the right seat width or thickness and position is more of a problem on road bikes and not a problem on cruiser bikes or those where you sit upright.

Additional Tips to Avoid Saddle Sores

Making sure the bike is fitted well is the most important step to take to avoid saddle sores. However, there are some additional tips to follow to avoid friction and keep saddle sores from happening.

Increase Your Core Strength and Flexibility

Having a weak core can also cause saddle sores in new cyclists. If the core is weak, it won’t be able to hold your body steady during a long ride and you will experience some discomfort in the lower back, shoulders, neck, and pelvic area. The longer you ride, the more unstable you will become, and this will likely cause saddle sores.

As you cycle more and more, your core strength and flexibility should also be improved naturally. However, if you have a long bike ride planned, it’s a good idea to do some core training.

Use Chamois Cream

Some people – even pros – can still have rocky hips with a proper bike fit. Reduce the potential for chafing by using a good chamois cream on your inner thighs and undercarriage areas.

It’s important to understand, however, that chamois cream is intended to reduce friction and is not meant to be used as an after-care for saddle sores. The cream can even make saddle sores worse if you are allergic or sensitive to any of the ingredients or if it gets inside open wounds.

Take Breaks During a Long Ride and Change Your Position

Taking breaks while on a long ride will allow your core and other parts of your body to rest and regain strength, greatly reducing the likelihood of developing saddle sores.

Decrease the body pressure by changing your cycling position often. Ride out of the saddle sometimes to release the pressure down there, especially when pedaling uphill. Scoot your sitting position to the back of the saddle, this will take some weight off of the upper body and keep your body stable.

Stay Clean

Cleanliness is important. As soon as your ride has ended, change out of our cycling shorts and thoroughly wash them. Also, take a shower as soon as possible after each ride to keep bacteria at bay.

How to Treat Saddle Sores

Treatment for saddle sores includes the following advice:

• Keep the area clean
• Use topical ointments like antibiotic cream
• Apply an over-the-counter acne cream with benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid in it
• Stay off the bike for a few days or until the sores heal, so they don’t get worse
• Use Ibuprofen or Acetaminophen to ease the pain
• Use a warm compress
• Seek medical attention when necessary

Skin can heal fairly quickly if it is not irritated continuously. Giving yourself a break from cycling will help treat saddle sores and allow them time to heal completely before getting back on the bike.

Always keep the affected parts of the skin clean and dry to keep an infection from setting in. Use topical ointments that will help to soothe the irritated, inflamed skin, such as a diaper rash cream, antibiotic cream, or hemorrhoid cream. Use chamois cream to prevent friction but not as a treatment method.

Minor irritation or chafing will not usually require medical attention. If the sores don’t heal within a few days, or they are open and painful sores, visit a doctor.

Know when to visit a doctor for saddle sores:

• If the saddle sore lasts more than two weeks
• If the saddle sore becomes excruciatingly painful
• If you have a fever or pus is coming out of the sore, these are signs of infection

Inseam and height are the two most important measurements when choosing the right bike size. Many guides and bike shops tend to ignore the inseam ratio and focus more on total height, assuming everyone has the same I/H ratio. This results in people getting the wrong bike size and finding it difficult to be comfortable on the bike.

The Average Inseam to Height Ratio (I/H)

Unlike LBR (Leg to Body Ratio), there are no studies about inseam-to-height ratio because inseam has been overlooked by many. We can’t use the available LBR research because leg length is typically measured from the hips using the total height subtracted by the sitting height method.

However, looking at available data from cyclists who have contributed their I/H number, the average inseam-to-height ratio seems to be around 0.46 to 0.47. The bigger your number, the longer your legs are compared to your torso, and vice versa.

It’s unclear if males and females have different average inseam-to-height ratios, but women seem to have proportionally shorter legs than men.

Calculate your Inseam to Height Ratio

What does this number mean for you as a cyclist?

Bikes are designed for the average human being. If your inseam-to-height ratio is very low or very high, the size chart provided by the bike manufacturer might not be the best way to decide the right bike size for you.

If your I/H number falls between 0.46-0.47, it means you have an average leg length compared to other people which will make finding a perfect fit easier.

If you have short legs (low I/H number), you have a long torso which means most bike geometry for your height might have short reach which makes you hunch on the bike and causes back pain. The easiest solution for this problem is to use longer stems.

Some people with short legs also prefer to size down their bikes to get a lower front-end area and be more aero.

If you have long legs (high I/H number), this means that you have a short torso and short reach, unless your arms are longer than average. From a bike fit perspective, people with long legs are generally the hardest to fit because most road bikes for their size will be too long. Unlike the earlier solution with short-legged people, you can’t always reduce the stem length because most road bikes come with a 9-10cm stem already, and reducing the length further will make your bike too twitchy and unstable.

Long-legged people will also have to raise their seatpost more than the average people. A higher seatpost means that the handlebar might feel too low which can cause back pain.

One solution is to get a bike one size bigger. But it’s not a perfect solution because bigger bikes have a longer reach.

The best solution is to choose an “endurance” type road bike with a high stack and a short reach or flip the stem to a positive angle and get a higher stack. Aesthetically not the best, but still better than not being comfortable on the bike. Over time, you might be able to get used to the lower handlebar position, that’s when you flip the stem back.

Road Bikes with Short Reach for People with Short Torso

A large number of performance-oriented road bikes from popular brands have a long reach, but there are non-endurance type road bikes with shorter reach for people with low I/H numbers:

• Cervélo R5
• Pinarello Dogma
• Look 785 Huez
• Time Alpe D’Huez
• Trek Émonda
• Colnago C68
• Felt FR
• Parlee Altum
• Ridley Helium

If you have the geometry sheet for the specific bike you have in mind, look at the stack and reach number. If the ratio of stack divided by reach is 1.40 or bigger, then the geometry is good for people with a shorter torso.