In this blog post, we will walk you through the process of choosing the perfect bike size for your height and inseam. We’ll also provide some tips on how to adjust your seat and handlebars so that you can ride in comfort.

Let’s get started!

Why You Shouldn’t Use The Recommended Size from Bike Manufacturers

Size charts provided by bike manufacturers are not always the best way to decide the right bike size for you. They might be good for the “average” people, but almost no one is perfectly average.

Everyone’s body is different and what may work for one person may not work for another.

Let’s first look at the Specialized bike size chart:

According to this chart, a 5’7″-5’9″ or 170-175 cm person should ride a size 54 Tarmac. This is likely one size too big. In the real world, a size 54 Specialized Tarmac bike would be too big for a person with a height of 170 cm.

So what will happen if you buy a size 54 Tarmac anyway? You will get various problems like shoulder pain, neck pain, and saddle sores, among many other things. In short, you won’t enjoy it.

Let’s see another examples from Trek. If you use their Size Finder tool to find out your size, they will likely recommend you a bike that is one or two sizes too big. They are worse than Specialized in this case.

So why do such big brands like Specialized and Trek do this?

No idea. But one reason I keep hearing is that a bike one size too big is “safer” for beginners because it has a higher stack and is easier to control with a wider handlebar. This is true to an extent, but for people who ride their bikes for more than an hour per session, you should get the correct bike size.

Use Geometry Charts to Compare Bike Sizes Between Brands

Some bike brands use numbers like 48, 52, 54, 56, 58, and so on to indicate their size. Others use letters like XS, S, M, L, and XL.

These two different styles can’t be compared to each other. And, even if two brands use the same format, you should never compare two bikes from different brands using only their size charts.

For example, a Colnago V3Rs size 52s is way bigger than a Trek Emonda size 52 because they use different measurements to decide that number. And a size S Canyon Ultimate is actually more comparable to a size M of Giant TCR.

See how annoying that is?

Okay, so how can you tell which bike is the right size for you?

Use geometry charts.

Geometry charts are like the blueprint of a bike frame. They show all the key dimensions and tube angles of a particular model, including things like the head angle, seat tube angle, stack, and reach, among many others.

Geometry charts are the only reliable way to tell how two bikes of different brands and models compare in size.

So, disregard all predetermined sizing options from every brand, and just use the geometry chart when you’re looking for a new bike.

The Correct Step to Choose The Right Bike Size

This is how to find the correct bike size for you:

1. Measure Your Height and Inseam

You can’t find a bike size based on height alone or inseam alone, both should be used together.

“Height” is pretty straightforward and most people already know their own height. “Inseam” in cycling is basically your leg length measured from the crotch. If inseam or inside leg measurement is new to you, here’s the easy way to measure yours. All you need is a hardcover book, or something of similar thickness, a pencil, and a tape measure.

To find your inseam, simply hold the book between your legs with the spine facing up. Make sure the book is pushed against your crotch but don’t push too hard. While barefooted, measure from the floor to the top of the spine.

If you can’t find someone to help you measure, face a wall and hold the book against the wall. Make sure the book is straight and all the wall-facing side is in contact with the wall. Make a mark at the top part of your book on your wall using a pencil. Finally, measure the pencil mark from the floor.

Repeat this process three times (or more if needed) and average out the results to get the most accurate measurement.

Now that you know your inseam, calculate your inseam-to-height ratio by dividing your inseam by your height. If your number is below 0.45, then you have short legs than average people, and if your number is above 0.47, then you have long legs.

Keep these measurements for now as they will be useful later.

2. Find Your Starting Point Using This Bike Frame Geometry Chart

Below you will find not the predefined size chart that is commonly found in other guides or bike brand websites. Those are arbitrary numbers that have no standards in any way. Instead, this is a geometry recommendation.

As said earlier, all bike brands use different systems and inconsistent numbering between brands, using a bike size chart might mislead you. That’s why instead of telling you the predefined size (S, M, L, 52, 54, 56, etc.) we’ll use the three bike measurements that matter the most when choosing a bike size:

• Effective top tube length: The horizontal distance from the head tube to the seat tube. Some bikes use this measurement as their size in centimeters.
• Stack: The vertical distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the head tube.
• Reach: The horizontal distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the head tube.

The three measurements dictate how large a bike is – there are others measurements like head tube and seat tube angle, but these do not vary much between bikes. Unlike a size chart, a geometry chart is consistent between brands so once you know the right geometry for you, you can easily choose any bike from any brand.

Keep in mind that the following table is a general guideline only to find your starting point.

A few things to keep in mind based on the table above:

• This table is just a starting point of guidance. In reality, there is a chance that you might fit better with a frame one size smaller or bigger.
  • If you have short legs (lower than 0.45 inseam-to-height ratio) you might need to size down
  • If you have long legs (higher than 0.47 inseam-to-height ratio) you might need to size up or choose a different bike with a higher stack number
• The stack and reach value is most important for performance-oriented or aero road bikes. This type of bike usually has the longest and lowest front-end, making it hard to find the right fit. For endurance road bikes or gravel bikes, you can usually get away with only using the effective top tube length because these types of bikes are made to be more relaxed and upright.
• If you are in-between two sizes, always go with the lower size. Your body can tolerate a lower stack more than a longer reach. Also, you can use a longer stem (and maybe a longer seat post) on a smaller frame to increase the total size of your bike so that it fits you.
• Some bikes have sloping top tubes, some are more horizontal. On different bikes of a similar size, top tubes can have a big difference in length depending on the slope. So, when you compare different bike brands’ geometry charts, make sure to look for the effective or horizontal top tube length. If they use a different term, look at the frame geometry diagram which is usually included on the chart.

Here’s an example of how to find your bike size using the geometry chart:

If you are 183 cm or 6 feet tall, the chart above says you need a bike with a 545–565 mm effective top tube length, >547 mm stack, and <400mm reach. Now look at the Specialized Tarmac geometry chart below:

Based on our recommendation above, a 56 Tarmac might be your size. However, since the reach is too close to the limit, you might want to try a different bike with a shorter reach and higher stack instead if you have proportionally long legs – based on your inseam-to-height ratio.

3. Go to Some Bike Brands’ Websites and Compare the Geometry Charts

Now, hopefully, you have several options you have in mind and are not fixated on one bike brand only because they might not have the right fit for you.

For example, some bikes like the Specialized Tarmac are known for being very low and long on the front end. It is a great-looking bike, but not too beginner-friendly.

If your legs are proportionally longer than the average person’s (inseam-to-height ratio > 0.47), that means your reach is proportionally shorter. So, it might be worth looking for a different bike brand that has a shorter reach and higher stack. Or choose an endurance-oriented road bike instead.

Even if you plan to buy at a local bike shop, always check the geometry charts on your own first.

Local bike shop doesn’t usually have a professional bike fitter, and it’s not uncommon that they recommend you a bike that’s one or two sizes too big because they don’t know any better or they don’t have the right size in stock and still want to close a sale.

It’s a good idea to try the bike first if you have the chance. But a bike that’s only one size too big won’t probably be noticeable on a five-minute ride (even though it can make you miserable on a one-hour ride or more) especially if it’s your first bike.

Tip #1: Get a bike fit first

If you have a body functionality problem, are less flexible, or are very unfit, you should think about getting a professional bike fit first before buying an expensive bike. The less “average” you are compared to other people, the more problems you will have on the bike over a long period of riding.

Don’t worry, it is normal to get a bike fit even if you don’t yet have a bike. In fact, some bike fitters recommend doing so because buying the wrong bike size is a costly mistake.

Tip #2: What if you already have a bike and it feels too big or too small

Fortunately, apart from the bike frame itself, the rest of your bicycle is adjustable (to a point). It might cost you money to buy the new part, but you might not need a new bicycle frame.

So, first, assess how you feel on the bike.

Is the seat post too high or not high enough? This is the easiest one to fix because most bikes have a decent amount of seat post adjustment. You can also usually purchase a shorter or longer seat post if your current one doesn’t fit you.

Do you feel too low on the front end and it’s causing neck pain? Then you need to raise your handlebar. If you still have spacers on top of your stem, then raise the stem by moving the spacer below the stem. If not, then flip your stem upside down.

What if your bike feels too long for you? You can try using a shorter stem. The minimum recommended length for a road bike is 80 mm and most road bikes come with a 90 or 100 mm stem, so you have 1-2 cm room for adjustment.

Alternatively, get a new handlebar with a shorter reach. Depending on your current handlebar, you might be able to find another model with a 5-10 mm shorter reach. They are more expensive than a stem, though.

As a last resort, you can also tilt the handlebar backward so that the shifter hoods are closer to you.

What you should NOT do if you feel your bike feels too long is to push the saddle forward too much. Sure, by pushing the saddle forward you sit closer to the handlebar – effectively shortening the reach. However, doing that will cause arm, neck, and shoulder pain because you’re shifting your weight forward.

Finally, if the standover is too high, meaning you need to lean your bike sideways when you put both of your feet down because the top tube is hitting your crotch, then the frame is just simply too big for you and you need a new frame.

For the sake of comparison, when we talk about road bikes in this article, we’re referring to performance-oriented road bikes and not endurance bikes. Also when we talk about gravel bikes, we’re referring to adventure off-road bikes and not cyclocross bikes.

In a Nutshell: Road Bike vs Gravel Bike

Road bikes are designed for riding on paved surfaces. They are lightweight and feel agile thanks to their geometry and slim tires. Gravel bikes are designed for riding on unpaved surfaces. The geometry leans towards stability and upright body position, and the wide tires can absorb rough road vibrations better.

Most road bikes today can be used for gravel too, thanks to disc brakes and a wider maximum tire width. All you need to bring a road bike off-road are wider tires, probably tubeless. The geometry won’t be ideal, but it’s not a deal-breaker for most people. On the other hand, you can make a gravel bike faster on paved roads with slick and slim road tires.

Road bikes have some clear advantages over gravel bikes:

• Road bike frames are more aero and high-end road bikes come with deep-section rims that are more aero
• Road bikes are comparably faster on paved roads thanks to their lower weight and better aero, this is important if you are racing

And gravel bikes also have some advantages over road bikes:

• Gravel bike frames have wider tire clearances and can handle rougher roads more comfortably
• Gravel bike frames have more mounting points which are important for bags and mudguards
• Some gravel bikes have bigger maximum weight limit than road bikes

Next, let’s see in more detail what are the difference between typical road bikes and gravel bikes.

Frame Geometry

At a first glance, road bikes and gravel bikes might not look that different. After all, they both have diamond-shaped frames and usually come with a drop bar and 700c wheels. However, upon closer inspection, there are some key differences in frame geometry.

Road bike frames have a steeper headtube angle and a lower stack. This results in a more aggressive riding position which is ideal for going at speed. Road bikes also have a shorter wheelbase, making them more agile.

Gravel bike frames have a slacker headtube angle and a higher stack. This puts the rider in a more upright position, which is better for long-distance riding and comfort. Because of the higher stack, gravel bikes tend to have a sloping top tube.

Gravel bike frames also have a longer wheelbase, which makes them more stable. This also allows them to have bigger tires and avoid toe overlap with the front wheel which is important for handling on rough and technical roads.

Road bikes’ bottom bracket is lower than gravel bikes. This lowers the riders’ center of gravity and gives them better confidence during fast cornering and descending. Gravel bikes’ higher bottom bracket will give the pedal more ground clearance which is important when riding on uneven ground to avoid pedal strikes.

Tire Choice and Tire Clearance

For most people, this is the main deciding factor between a road bike and a gravel bike.

Road bikes today come in stock with tires that are 25-28mm wide. In the past, road bikes used to have much narrower tires (23mm), but the trend in recent years has been to go wider for comfort. And so, most newer generation road bikes can fit up to 34mm wide tires (even if they don’t officially say so), which are usually good enough for unpaved and smooth dirt road riding.

Gravel bikes come with even wider tires, they come in stock with 40mm tires and can sometimes go up to 50mm. They have higher rolling resistance but they offer much more comfort and grip.

If you ride mostly off-road, you will definitely need a gravel bike instead of a road bike. On the other hand, if you do most of your riding on paved roads and want to occasionally venture onto unpaved roads, dirt, and loose gravel, you can get away with a road bike.

If you’re not sure what kind of riding you will mostly be doing, it’s probably best to lean more on the side of getting a road bike. This is because road bikes today are getting more versatile and can be used in a broader variety of terrain. Also, beginners are more likely to ride on paved roads or dirt than a highly technical off-road terrain.

Road vs Gravel Groupset

A groupset is a collection of parts that make up the drivetrain of a bike. It includes shifters, derailleurs, a crankset, a chain, and a cassette.

Road bikes usually come with 2x drivetrains while gravel bikes come with 1x or 2x drivetrains. A 2x drivetrain has two chainrings in the front and offers a tighter range of cassette gears. This is ideal for road riding because it allows you to spin at a preferred cadence on a fast flat road and still have low gears for climbing hills.

A 1x drivetrain only has one chainring in the front and fewer gears overall. It is simpler because it removes the need for a front derailleur, but you will have fewer gears to work with. This doesn’t matter as much as a road bike because on a gravel bike you’re going to be riding at slower speeds.

Some gravel bikes come with 2x drivetrains for riders who want the option to ride on both paved and unpaved roads.

Thankfully, road and gravel groupset components from the same brand are fully compatible. So, if you have a road bike with a road groupset and you want to turn it into a gravel bike, you can easily do so by swapping out the rear derailleur and cassette with ones that are more suited for gravel. Gravel rear derailleurs usually have a clutch mechanism to prevent chain slap.

If you’re not sure which groupset to get, Shimano 105 and Ultegra are two of the most versatile groupsets. They are road groupset but the 105 in particular is compatible with up to 36t cassette, which is big enough for any gravel riding. The maximum of 34t on Ultegra is also good enough most of the time. Shimano road groupset is perfectly capable when used off-road.

Shimano’s gravel-specific groupset, the GRX, is good if you need more reliability on the roughest road condition. The most noticeable difference, really, is in the hood design and cassette capacity.

Suspension

Both road and gravel bikes don’t come with full suspension. But, some gravel bikes have suspension forks or some kind of vibration dampeners. For example, the IsoSpeed decoupler in Trek Checkpoint and Future Shock in Specialized Diverge.

A suspension fork will make your ride more comfortable on rough roads but it comes with a few drawbacks. First, it is heavier and will make your bike less efficient on paved roads. Second, it can be harder to control on descents because the front end of the bike is more prone to wobbling.

Generally, for riding on dirt roads or loose gravel, you don’t need any vibration dampeners because increasing the width of your tires will have the same effect.

Frame Strength and Materials

Road and gravel bike frames are available in aluminum, steel, titanium, and carbon fiber materials. The cheapest material is usually aluminum. Steel and titanium frames are good for longevity. But, for the performance-to-weight ratio, none can beat carbon fiber yet.

Gravel bike frames are tougher than road bike frames, but it doesn’t mean that road bike frames can’t be ridden off-road. They are both subject to the same ISO 4210-6 strength requirements under the same “racing bike” category. So, both road and gravel bike frames have the same capabilities, but gravel frames are stronger because they have thicker walls to dampen vibrations and a higher maximum weight capacity.

Handlebar Design

Gravel bikes have flared dropbars, which means the drop section of the handlebar is angled outward, making it wider than the hood. The flare supposedly gives you more control when riding on technical roads. In reality, most people don’t think flared dropbars have a significant advantage over unflared road dropbars in terms of control.

One clear advantage of flared dropbars is that it gives you more room to mount a wider handlebar bag.

Some road bikes have flat tops handlebars that are designed to be more aero than standard rounded tops. This can save up to 7 watts at a high speed. Gravel bikes don’t need flat tops because you don’t ride fast enough on gravel where the aero shape will give an advantage.

Gravel vs Road Bike Rims

700C is the most popular rim size for both gravel and road bikes. Though, some gravel bikes use the smaller 650B so they can fit bigger tires. Road bikes almost exclusively use 700C.

Gravel-specific rims are wider than road bike rims. The extra width allows better compatibility with wider tires, but on the downside, they can’t be used with slim road tires.

Just like the frame, road bike rims are usually strong enough for dirt and loose gravel road. Though, make sure you don’t fit wide tires on narrow rims.

As a general rule of thumb, double the internal width of your rim to get its approximate maximum tire width. For example, a 19mm rim can be fitted up to a 38mm tire, and a 21mm rim can be fitted up to a 42mm tire. (This is not always the same for all brands.)

Unlike road bikes, gravel bikes don’t usually use deep profile rims because you don’t ride fast enough on gravel to take advantage of the aero. A gravel bike’s rim depth is usually no more than 45mm, whereas road bikes can go up to 80mm.

If you plan on having only one bike for all roads, it’s much more convenient to have two sets of wheels: one for road and one for gravel. It’s easier to swap bike wheels than to remove the tires and install different ones every time, especially if you run tubeless.

If you really can’t afford a second wheelset, the best compromise is to get 21-23mm wheels and fit 30-34mm tubeless tires, depending on which side you lean more into. This setup is fast enough on paved roads and comfortable enough for gravel riding.

Mounting Points

This is another one of the clear advantages a gravel bike has over a road bike. At its heart, gravel bikes are built for adventures so they have more mounting points to allow you to attach all sorts of bike accessories, such as fenders, bags, and multiple water bottle cages. Some gravel bikes also have a built-in tool compartment on the downtube. Most road bikes only have two mounting points for bidons.

Gravel bike frames also have a higher maximum load that allows you to bring more gear with you on your adventures. Road bikes usually have a 130kg maximum weight limit including the rider because they are not meant to be loaded with gear.

That said, most bike bags don’t require mounting points and can be easily attached with velcro straps. So, you can still go on reasonable bikepacking trips even on a road bike.

Building a True All-Road Bike

As you can see, the line between gravel bikes and road bikes is blurry. And we purposely avoid endurance bikes and cyclocross bikes which makes the line even more blurry. Any of these four bikes can do almost everything, but none of them is the best at everything.

If you want to have only one bike for all types of terrain, you will still need to lean toward one or the other. Here’s what we recommend:

First, you might want to choose a road bike frame with a generous tire clearance (35mm+) and a relaxed geometry. Some examples are Trek Domane, Cervelo Caledonia, Enve Melee, and Allied Echo. If you lean towards gravel, it’s better to choose a simple gravel bike frame that is not bulky and doesn’t have off-road-specific features like fork suspension or dropper seat post. Some examples are Factor Ostro Gravel, Wilier Rave SLR, or Scott Addict Gravel.

Second, use a 2x drivetrain groupset with a big cassette. A 1x won’t be enough for riding on the tarmac and most of the time you won’t find the right gear for your preferred speed and cadence.

Third, get two sets of wheels—one for road riding with slim tires (25-30mm), and the other for gravel (34mm+). If you can only have one wheelset, choose a rim with 45mm depth or shallower, 21-23mm internal width, and 30-34mm tires. You can use this wheelset on both road and gravel.

Finally, don’t shave too much weight on your bike because this will usually reduce comfort. Lightweight saddle and handlebars can make your bike much lighter, but lightweight components will not absorb road vibrations well.

With this setup, you will have a bike that is light enough for road riding and fast enough for gravel riding. It won’t be the best at both, but it will be good enough. And it will be much cheaper than buying two bikes.

For beginners, it is best to start with an entry-level road bike that doesn’t cost too much. Choosing an entry-level road bike can be daunting as you want a versatile, comfortable, and affordable bike.

Here are the most important criteria when choosing an entry-level road bike for beginners.

Frame Geometry

The first thing you want to consider is the frame geometry. You want a road bike with a relaxed riding position that will be comfortable for a beginner’s body who has not adapted to a bicycle yet.

Good entry-level road bikes should be endurance-oriented and have a longer wheelbase than typical race bikes and a higher handlebar stack.

When possible, choose a frame with a carbon fork. Carbon as a material is lighter and will absorb vibrations better than steel or aluminum, making your bike more comfortable.

Price

You shouldn’t spend all your bike budget on your first bike. Your first bike will not be your last, and you might make some mistakes when choosing the first bike, so it’s better to make a cheap mistake than an expensive one.

Plus, once you start riding, you will need to buy essential accessories like bike lights, bottle cages, bidons, jerseys and bibs, and probably cycling shoes.

You should be able to find an entry-level road bike for between $500 and $1,200.

Groupset

The groupset is the collection of components that make up the drivetrain of the bicycle. It includes shifters, derailleurs, a crankset, a chain, and a cassette.

The best entry-level groupsets are Shimano Claris and Sora. They have 8 or 9-speed cassettes and 2 chainrings. They are good for beginner cyclists as they are easy to use and have a wide gear range that will help you up hills and make it easier to spin the pedals faster on flat terrain.

There’s the brake to consider too. Most entry-level bikes use rim brakes to save some cost. At this price level, (mechanical) disc brakes don’t offer an advantage in braking power but it does allow for wider tire clearance. If you want hydraulic disc brakes that do feel better than rim brakes, you will need to get a bike with Shimano Tiagra or higher which costs significantly more than Claris and Sora.

Cheaper bikes usually come in stock with a Microshift groupset. In our opinion, it’s not the best groupset for the price compared to Sensah or LTWOO, but we don’t recommend you buy a separate groupset just yet at this price level.

Size

Bike sizing is important to get right because the best bike is a bike that fits you. You want a bike that is the right size for your height and inseam (the distance from your crotch to the floor). If the bike is too big, your body will be in a lot of pain, and if it’s too small, you will be too cramped.

Good road bikes come in five sizes or more. The more sizes it has, the more likely you will find one that fits you.

There are also women’s-specific road bikes that have a lower stand-over height and shorter reach to make them more comfortable for female riders. But, most bikes are unisex and the fit can be altered slightly with a change of stem and handlebar.

The best way to see if a bike is for you is to test-ride it. You can go to your local bike shop and ask to test ride some bikes.

Availability in Your Local Bike Shop

It’s hard to find good bikes in stock in local bike shops nowadays, but the best way to buy a bike is still in person from a good bike shop. This way you can test-ride the bike, get help with choosing the right size and model, and get professional advice on accessories.

It’s also easier to return or exchange a bike if there are any problems. And, if anything breaks on your bike, it will be easier to get it fixed quickly.

Buying a bike online can be cheaper and there is a wider range of models to choose from, but you will have to assemble the bike yourself, and if anything goes wrong, you might have to fix it yourself.

Less important criteria

When shopping for high-end carbon bikes, there are several more important criteria to consider such as the wheels, saddle, stem, tires, and handlebars. Also, a lot of people will care about the overall weight and the aerodynamic drag.

For entry-level bikes, these are less important because all the small components and wheels that you will get from them are pretty basic and there won’t be much of a difference between brands.

Now that you know what to look for in an entry-level road bike, it’s time to start looking at some specific bikes. Here are 6 of the best entry-level road bikes for beginners.

1. Triban RC120

The Triban RC120 comes with an aluminum frame with a comfortable geometry that puts the rider in an upright position, giving less strain on a rider’s lowers back.

Triban RC120 is equipped with a 2×8 Microshift groupset and mechanical disc brakes. There’s no significant advantage when comparing mechanical disc brakes and rim brakes, but disc brake wheels are more common nowadays in case you want to replace your wheels later.

At $700, the Triban RC120 is one of the cheapest road bikes for new entrants. The price may fool you into thinking that the bike is not exceptional, but that is not true. It has everything one would a road bike entrant will need, and Triban as a brand has a proven track record.

Pros:

• Affordable price
• Comfortable geometry
• Mudguard mounting points

Cons:

• No Shimano groupset (but it is expected at this price range)

2. Giant Contend 3

Giant Contend 3 is an entry-level aluminum endurance bike for beginners from the biggest bike brand in the world. It is designed to take a new beginner from pavements to bumpy back roads with maximum control and confidence. The Giant Contend 3 frame is made from 6061 alloys, which makes the bike a bit lighter than the rest at this price level.

The Giant Contend 3 comes in stock with the Shimano Claris groupset, albeit with Tektro brakes and an FSA crankset. It is priced just below $1000. The Giants Contend 3 might be one of the best bangs for your buck when it comes to road bikes.

Pros:

• D-shaped seatpost should be more comfortable than standard rounded posts (but you can’t upgrade it)
• Maximum tire size up to 30mm vs the more common 28mm on a road bike

Cons:

• OverDrive steerer is not a commonly used size, you will have a hard time finding aftermarket stems

If you prefer a disc brake version with wider tire clearance for going off-road, check out the Giant Contend AR 4 instead. It’s around $200 more expensive, but the difference is worth it if you want to ride gravel too, instead of buying a separate bike.

3. Specialized Allez

The Specialized Allez promises better handling, smoother riding, and lower weight than its competitors. Equipped with a Shimano Claris 2×8 groupset and Tektro rim brakes, it’s a great choice for a beginner. The price of this bike is just below $1000, so it’s pretty much comparable with Giant Contend 3. You can’t go wrong with either.

Pros:

• Local Specialized dealers are easy to find
• Mudguard mounting points
• The dropped seat stays look more modern

Cons:

• Non-Shimano cassette might cause shifting performance to be less than ideal

4. Polygon Strattos S2

The Polygon Strattos S2 is a lightweight road bike with an alloy frame and a carbon fork. It has a race geometry, so not the best for beginners who are not used to riding bikes. However, it can be an advantage for competitive-minded people who want to get used to aggressive bikes early.

The Strattos S2 is equipped with the Shimano Claris 2×8 and costs $700, which is significantly lower than Specialized and Giant’s offering, making it the best value entry-level road bike on the market currently.

Pros:

• Great value for the money
• Race geometry, which is uncommon for bikes at this price level
• Clean welding

Cons:

• The geometry is not for total beginners
• Not many dealers in western countries
• Only available in 4 sizes

5. Cannondale CAAD Optimo 4

Cannondale CAAD Optimo 4 is another entry-level road bike with race geometry. Although not as aggressive as the Polygon Strattos, CAAD Optimo also has a lower front end that puts the rider in an aerodynamic position. It’s something worth considering if you’re a beginner with a plan in racing someday.

With the Shimano Claris 2×8 groupset and an asking price shy above $1000, it’s not the best value on the market, but what it offers is unique compared to its competitors.

Pros:

• A beginner-friendly race geometry
• More popular than the Polygon, easier to buy locally
• Vittoria Zaffiro tires are nice for a bike at this price

Cons:

• External cable routing on the top tube

6. Trek Domane AL 2 Disc

At the first sight, Trek Domane AL 2 might not seem like a good deal at all because it’s priced higher than its competitors with the same groupset. However, it is a disc brake bike, so the price difference is normal. The Domane AL 2 is one of the few entry-level bikes with Shimano Claris that’s available in a disc brake model, it also has lots of mounting points and generous tire clearance, making it a true all-roader.

Pros:

• Fender and rack mounts, and top tube mounting points
• 35mm tire clearance in the disc brake model, can easily be used for gravel riding. Also available in rim brake for a cheaper price if you don’t care about the tire clearance

Cons:

• On the expensive side if you don’t need the disc brake

Here’s a closer look at the key differences between these two types of bikes.

What are commuter bikes?

While the term “commuter bikes” does refer to a specific type of bicycle just like the terms road bikes or mountain bikes, sometimes it’s also used as a general category which includes any kind of bicycle that’s designed to be ridden in the city.

In fact, most people who use a bicycle to commute don’t actually use a commuter bike.

In this article, we are going to talk about the actual commuter bike and other types of bikes that are also commonly used for commuting such as:

• Hybrid bikes
• Fitness bikes
• Comfort bikes
• Folding bikes

All types of commuter bikes share several key features that make them ideal for commuting.

First, commuter bikes tend to have a more upright riding position. This makes them more comfortable for non-athlete bodies, as you won’t be hunched over the handlebars. Second, commuter bikes usually come equipped with fenders and racks, which make them more versatile for everyday use.

Third, commuter bikes have wider tires than road bikes. This helps to absorb bumps in the road which is very important to keep your body comfortable.

All of these features make commuter bikes ideal for commuting in the city.

How do commuter bikes compare to road bikes?

In contrast, road bikes are designed for speed and power efficiency. They have a more aerodynamic riding position with the rider hunched over the handlebars. This combined with the more aero-shaped frame and slim tires helps reduce wind resistance and makes the bike faster.

However, this aggressive riding position can be uncomfortable for people who are not used to riding them. Road bikes also have narrower tires than commuter bikes, which helps to make them go much faster but also makes them less comfortable on rough roads.

When ridden with the same effort, a road bike can go about 5 km/h or 3 mph faster than commuter bikes. For some people, the tradeoff between speed and comfort is worth it.

Let’s do some math:

According to Zippia, the average American commutes 41 miles or 65 km a day to and from work.

The average commuting bike speed is 12 mph or 20 km/h, and the average road bike speed is 15 mph or 25 km/h.

On a commuter bike, it’ll take them 1 hour and 40 minutes to go to work. On a road bike, it’ll take them 1 hour and 20 minutes to go the same distance.

This means that, on average, you’ll save 20 minutes each way by commuting on a road bike for a total of 40 minutes per day, a 22% difference. The bigger the distance, the more time you will save.

Which bike is right for you?

Now that you know the key differences between these two types of bikes, you might be wondering which one is right for you.

The answer, of course, depends on your individual preference and whether you can handle the more uncomfortable yet faster road bike.

If you are used to riding a road bike and the route you take is generally smooth, then the best bike for commuting is a road bike because you will be able to get to work faster with less energy. If you’re just getting into biking, or you want the most comfortable ride, then the answer is a commuter bike.

Other than speed, road bikes are also lighter than even small-sized folding bikes. So, if you need to lift your bike or use public transportation during the commute, road bikes can be more convenient.

That said, if want something in-between, there are two more options:

Gravel bikes and endurance road bikes

If you want the best of both worlds for commuting, you could always get a gravel bike or an endurance road bike.

Gravel bikes and endurance road bikes are essentially road bikes with a wider tire clearance and more upright geometry. Not as upright as commuter bikes, but any beginner should be able to feel comfortable on them.

They are not as fast as road bikes because of the weight and wider tires, but at least you can easily swap the tires if you need more speed, and swapping tires is much cheaper than buying a whole new bike.

On another positive side, gravel and endurance road bikes usually come in stock with a wider gear range than a performance-oriented road bike. If you commute through hills, this can make your ride a lot easier.

Just like road bikes, all gravel and endurance road bikes are also compatible with racks and fenders, which is important if you want to use them for commuting in bad weather. And finally, they are built to be tougher and more stable than average road bikes so you can bring more stuff with you.

How to make your road bike (or any bike) more suitable for commuting

Road bikes may not be the most comfortable option for commuting, but using a road bike can save you a lot of time because it’s significantly faster than other types of commuter bikes. Fortunately, there are ways to make them more comfortable and suitable for commuting.

First off, you can swap out the tires for wider ones. This will make your bike a bit slower, but it will also make it much more comfortable. Every road bike has a different tire clearance, but you can usually use 30mm tires on most disc brake bikes even if they don’t officially allow it. Some road bikes allow up to 34mm.

To further increase comfort from the tire, use a tubeless setup so you can drop the air pressure by 20-30 psi. The drop in air pressure will make your bike much more comfortable (and probably faster).

Next, increase the stack and lower the reach of your bike. This will change the position of your body to be more upright and relaxed. These are not usually a problem on gravel and endurance road bikes.

To achieve both, you can get a shorter stem and flip it upside down. You might also want to try a handlebar with short bends that reduce the overall reach or a riser handlebar to increase the stack.

Speaking of stem, you can try a suspension stem like the RedShift ShockStop to reduce road vibration by up to 70%. Some endurance road bikes have a built-in vibration-dampening technology on the headset, so using a suspension stem might be overkill.

Finally, make sure your road bike is actually the right size for you. With other types of bikes, you can usually go up or down by one or even two sizes, but for road bikes, you pretty much have to use the right size.

But great carbon bikes don’t have to be that expensive. If you look at the far eastern part of the world, you can often find equally impressive bike frames at a third of the price.

Among the top aero carbon fiber bike frames from the east, there are the Seka Exceed and Winspace T1500. These bikes are lightweight, versatile, and rugged, making them a good choice for competitive cyclists.

But how do they match up with each other?

Geometry

In the geometry department, both bikes are similar. They have aerodynamic considerations foremost in their designs. The Seka Exceed leans more toward an all-rounded-shaped top tube while the T1500 looks more like a dedicated aero bike.

The two both come in five sizes.

The Seka Exceed has a shorter reach in every size – by up to 15mm on the largest size – and a greater stack, making the Seka Exceed a more relaxed frame than the Winspace T1500. Seka Exceed will fit better for people with short torsos and long legs, and the Winspace T1500 will appeal to those with long torsos and short legs.

Because of the very short reach compared to most racing bikes, you will probably need a 1-2 cm longer stem on Seka Exceed if you decided to get one.

Here’s the full geometry chart for each bike:

The Winspace frameset has a bigger trail and wheelbase making its steering more stable at high speed. Seka Exceed’s smaller trail number will make it an agile and livelier-feeling bike. Neither is absolutely better than the other, it’s up to your preference.

Price

Tier-1 aero bikes don’t come cheap. A top-tier aero bike from top brands will typically come in around $5000, since they’re often made of highly weight-optimized carbon fiber grade, and they have a high budget in R&D and marketing.

Seka and Winspace don’t likely spend as much in the latter two, so you can expect a big cost reduction compared to western brands.

The Winspace T1500 frameset comes with an MSRP online as low as US$ 1,480 to 1,580. Even compared to Specialized’s second-tier carbon frame, it’s still less than half the price. At this price range, the T1500 is an incredible deal.

The newer Winspace T1550 is $200 more expensive at $1,680 to $1,780. There’s no difference between the T1500 and T1550 in terms of shape and geometry, but the T1550 allows for hidden cable even with mechanical groupsets.

The Seka Exceed is roughly comparable to the T1500, running at approximately US$ 1,300 to 1,700.

The Seka Exceed is not their highest grade frame, though. The title goes to Seka Exceed RDC. The Seka Exceed RDC runs closer to $2,000 to $2,200 in total. Significantly more expensive than the normal Exceed and the T1500, but it’s still an incredible deal against other bikes if you compare them by price per weight.

Keep in mind, though, that Seka is newer to the market and Winspace has been a big player for a long time. The Seka Exceed is a little more expensive compared to the T1500 on the high end, but on the low end, it is a bit less expensive.

Weight

The Winspace T1500/T1550 frame is the heaviest of the two, at a weight of 1050g size M unpainted. Seka Exceed is only 97 grams lighter at 953g unpainted. The Exceed RDC is about 10% lighter than the Exceed, coming in at 775g unpainted.

As you can see, the RDC is a much lighter bike. The weight is comparable or even lighter to some of the highest-level all-around bikes from top western brands. For example, the Factor Ostro VAM which looks very similar to the Seka Exceed RDC weighs 780g and costs $5500. Now you can see how much of a better value the Seka Exceed RDC is.

Bottom Bracket Type

The BB86 press-fit bottom bracket on the Winspace T1500 is an industry-standard bracket. Creaking problems are especially a problem with a press-fit bracket if the quality control isn’t the best. However, Winspace has a well-deserved reputation for good quality control and you are no more likely to see a bracket problem with this frame than on other frames of the same type. Though, with a press-fit-type bracket, there’s always a chance of creaking

The Seka Exceed and Seka Exceed RDC framesets both use threaded brackets, the T47. The T47 threaded bottom bracket was launched in 2015, looking to be a cure for the creaky bottom brackets that were often a complaint of press-fit systems.

The downside of the T47 type is that it’s heavier than the press-fit brackets, though note that even with that, the Seka frame is still lighter than its Winspace counterpart.

Even with the additional weight from the threaded brackets, the T47-equipped Seka Exceed is nearly 100 grams lighter than the BB86-equipped Winspace, and the Exceed RDC is lighter still.

Everything else being equal, the threaded T47 bracket is theoretically less stiff than the BB86 press-fit. Combined with the lower weight, the Seka Exceed and Exceed RDC may be less stiff compared to the Winspace T1500.

Frame and Component Options

The Winspace T1500 is available in both rim brake and disc brake frame types, while the Seka Exceed is only compatible with disc brakes. Since disc brake components are more expensive than rim brake, a complete T1500 rim brake bike might be cheaper overall than a complete Seka Exceed bike with disc brakes.

The seat post on the Seka Exceed is available in both straight and 15 mm setbacks. The Winspace T1500 has only one option, a setback seat post. It’s not a big problem for most people, but some people might need to push their saddle much farther forward with Winspace T1500.

Both of the Seka Exceeds’ standard prices include the integrated handlebar system. The Winspace T1500 does not come with a handlebar, which you must buy separately; purchasing a carbon fiber handlebar will increase the overall price of the frame.

Overall, the feature set of the Seka Exceed, well, exceeds that of the Winspace T1500. Unless you want a rim brake frame.

Warranty

The Seka bikes have a lifetime warranty on the frame, 5 years on their fork, and 2 years on their handlebars. They also give you 25% off of a new frame if you break your old one in an accident. By comparison, the T1500 frameset has only a 3-year warranty on the frameset. There is a 2-year warranty on Winspace wheelsets and 1 year for accessories, but those are separate topics.

If you’re looking for more affordable carbon road bike frame options from the East, check out this article.

After all, bikes with a drop bar look more aggressive than normal bikes and it puts the rider in such a hunched position that you might think that can’t be comfortable for the back!

In this article, we address some common misconceptions about drop bars and whether you really should avoid drop bars and opt for a flat-bar road bike instead.

Let’s dive into it. 

Myths about drop bars 

A drop bar is normally narrower than a flat bar, it is curved downwards and allows you to place your hands on the drops to get even lower on the bike. Drop bars are more common on road and gravel bikes and flat bars are more common on MTBs and motorcycles, while commuter and utility bikes use a variation of flat bars.

And in case you’re curious:

Yes, there are road bikes with flat handlebars, though they are not very common and people tend to call them hybrid bikes. You can change drop bars on a road bike with a flat bar. To do that you will need to buy flat-bar-compatible shifters and brake levers.

The question about flat bar on a road bike is often asked by people who have never tried a drop bar road bike or have only ridden an MTB and motorcycle because of these myths about drop bars:

Myth 1: Drop bars are uncomfortable for your hands

Drop bars are actually more comfortable on your hands because the width is more or less equal to the width of your shoulders and it puts your hands in a natural position.

Some commuter bikes also have their handlebars curved backward to simulate a more natural hand position, because flat bars aren’t actually that comfortable for long-distance riding.

Also, thanks to their multiple hand positions on a drop bar, you can switch your hand position when your shoulders start to get sore.

Once you’re used to it, you will quickly realize that a drop bar bike is actually more comfortable than a traditional flat handlebar.

Myth 2: Drop bar handling is worse than flat bar

This is kind of true. Bikes with drop bars are not necessarily harder to handle on the road, but they are harder to steer than bikes with flat bars, and there are several reasons for this.

First, drop bars are usually much narrower than flat bars. The narrower your handlebars, the harder it will be to steer your bike. This is also true when comparing flat bars with flat bars.

Second, road bikes usually have longer stems than MTBs. Longer stems make steering harder, but they are more stable at a high speed. Third, the geometry of road bikes itself made the steering feels locked in on a straight line than an MTB.

Because of the second and third reasons, many people think that road bikes with drop bars have worse handling than MTBs with flat bars. That’s true if you ride a road bike in the mountains, but you don’t. Both bikes are just made for different terrain and riding a bike on the road doesn’t require you to make maneuvers or quick turns.

You don’t make a turn on a road bike by steering the handlebar. Instead, you tilt your body in the direction where you want to go.

Myth 3: Drop bars make your back hurt

Bikes with drop bars usually put the rider in a more aggressive and hunched position, but the type of handlebars itself doesn’t determine the aggressiveness.

The aggressiveness of a bike is decided by the frame geometry, length, angle of the stem, and the number of spacers below your stem.

So yeah, road bikes with drop bars are more aggressive, but changing them to a flat bar won’t make them less aggressive.

Generally speaking, road bikes come into geometry categories: endurance and race. Endurance road bikes are more upright than race bikes. If you want a road bike that doesn’t hurt your back, an endurance road bike is what you might need. 

Myth 4: Drop bars are not good for off-road 

Depends on how off-the-road it is. Drop bars are still good for light gravel roads, which is why all gravel bikes use drop bars. That said, if you want to go mountain biking, you definitely shouldn’t use a drop bar bike.

Myth 5: The brakes on drop bars are harder to reach

People with small hands might find it hard to reach brake levers on their road bikes with drop bars when it’s on the standard setup. The thing is, you can easily reduce the reach of the brake lever with a few turns of screws.

Myth 6: Drop bars are bad for beginners

Because bicycles for kids use flat bars, many people think that drop bars are too advanced for them and not beginner-friendly. While it’s true that you should learn to ride a bike with a flat bar because you will need the extra steering capability, it doesn’t take long to get used to using drop bars, ride them for a few minutes and you’ll get used.

What beginner bike riders actually need is less aggressive frame geometry that provides stable handling and a relaxed position, regardless of the type of handlebar.

Why you probably shouldn’t get a flat bar bike for cycling on a paved road

There are serious drawbacks to using flat bars for road biking. Here are some of them:

1. As said earlier, a flat bar by itself doesn’t make the bike more comfortable. It’s the opposite. If you want a more comfortable and less aggressive ride, use a shorter stem and flip the stem to increase stack height. Also, get an endurance road bike rather than a race bike.

2. If you already have a bike with a drop bar and want to change to a flat bar, you will need to replace not just the bar but also the shifters and brake lever to flat bar-compatible ones. This will cost you more. It’s so much cheaper to get a different stem if you don’t think your existing bike is comfortable.

3. Flat bars are slower than drop bars because of the wider grip and lack of drop position. On the road, whether you are riding for the sake of enjoyment or commuting, you will want to go faster and spend less energy. Drop bars are a better choice for this reason.

4. The wider grip on a flat bar is more tiring for your shoulders and arms on long-distance riding. Plus, you can’t change your hand position on a flat bar. Some people use bar ends on their flat bars because of this, but that just makes them a wider drop bar.

How to change your drop bar bike to a flat bar

The good news is if you already have a drop bar bike and still for some reason want to change to a flat bar, you can. But to make it work, you will need flat-bar-compatible shifters and brakes.

Have a look at one of these, depending on your current groupset:

• Shimano 2×11
• Shimano 2×10
• SRAM 2×11

Unfortunately, if your bike has a 2×12 or others, you will need to replace the whole set. Either get a 2×11 with flat-bar-compatible shifters and brakes or get a mountain bike groupset that is specifically made for flat bars.

After that, it’s a matter of removing the current components and installing the new components. This can be complicated for beginners, so you might want to bring your bike to a local bike shop.

What about hybrid and fitness bikes?

Hybrid and fitness bikes are two more options to consider if you don’t already have a bike and want to ride on the road with flat bars.

They are great for people who need a bike for commuting and leisure, but not for people who are road cycling with the intent to race.

The geometry of hybrid and fitness bikes is typically more upright than gravel bikes and endurance bikes. So, if you have a bad back and hunched position is not for you, they can be the right option for you.

For the rest of us, keep in mind that hybrid and fitness bikes aren’t made for speed. They are slower than a true road bike because of their weight and lower-level components. Also, nowadays road bikes are much more comfortable and forgiving which makes them good for recreational riding too.

Similarities Between the Specialized Tarmac SL7 and the Trek Emonda

Let’s start with what these two racing bikes have in common—after all, they’re designed to fit the same all-around performance-oriented road bike market niche.

The Tarmac SL7 and the Trek Emonda are both manufactured in Taiwan for the American companies Trek and Specialized, so you can expect a similar build quality between the two. They are both manufactured in Giant’s factory, in fact.

Both the Tarmac SL7 and the Trek Emonda are outfitted with disc brakes and have no rim brake options. This is typical of modern road bikes. Since these bikes are at the higher end of the market in terms of price, disc brakes’ increased cost won’t add much to the already high price tag.

Both bike frames are available in two levels of carbon layup. The highest-grade carbon options for both the Tarmac SL7 (Fact 12r carbon) and the Trek Emonda (OCLV 800) are about the same weight—but the Emonda SLR is ever slightly lighter. The lower-grade Tarmac SL7 (Fact 10r carbon) is lighter than Emonda’s lower-grade carbon frame (OCLV 500).

The two bikes’ maximum tire width is also nearly the same, with the Emonda’s official tire rating coming in at 28 mm and the Tarmac’s at 30 mm. Unofficially, both the Emonda’s and the SL7’s wheels can accommodate up to 32 mm tires with at least 2 mm of tire clearances on each side, so the maximum tire widths between the two bikes are virtually the same.

Tarmac SL7 vs Emonda: Frame Geometry

The geometries of the Tarmac SL7 and Emonda are true to a road racing bike design, being longer and lower to the ground on the front end, with a short wheelbase.

The Emonda has a more comfortable geometry than the Tarmac SL7, with a higher stack and lower reach. However, its RSL integrated barstem handlebar has a longer total reach at 100 mm, 25 mm more than the SL7’s Roval Rapide handlebar at 75 mm.

If you compare the two bikes in the same frame and handlebar/stem size, the Emonda’s frame and handlebar together come out a bit longer than the SL7’s—9 mm to be exact.

The Emonda offers one more frame size option than the SL7, offering eight sizes to the SL7’s seven frame size choices. However, the SL7 frame is available in smaller sizes than the Emonda frame, making it a better choice for shorter cyclists.

The distance between the two wheel centers or wheelbase is roughly the same between the two bikes, and so is the trail measurement. This means that the SL7 and the Emonda handle in roughly the same manner—they both feel agile and aggressive.

Bottom Bracket Comparison

While both bikes use press fit bottom brackets in the last generation, this generation’s Specialized Tarmac SL7 and the Trek Emonda both use threaded bottom brackets.

In theory, press-fit bottom brackets are lighter and stiffer than threaded ones. But in practice, threaded bottom brackets have gained favor among cyclists over press-fitted ones because press-fitted bottom brackets often become loose inside the frame’s housing, making a telltale creaking sound.

The two bikes use different standardized threaded bottom brackets: the Emonda has a T47 bottom bracket, while the SL7 has a BSA bottom bracket.

T47 bottom brackets have a larger diameter than BSA, so Emonda’s frame has a larger housing. The T47 threaded housing has its bearings inside the bike frame, while the BSA has external bearings. This means that the T47 bearings are held more stiffly in the carbon frame housing because of its internal bearings.

When buying a new crank or spindle set, make sure that its diameter and length are compatible with the T47 or BSA housing on your SL7 or Emonda bike. Both the T47 and BSA housing are compatible with mainstream spindle and crank measurements.

Tarmac SL7 vs Emonda Complete Bike Components

Here’s a side-by-side comparison of the components each of these bikes will have if you buy a pre-built Emonda or Tarmac SL7. 

Handlebars

The Emonda comes with a Bontranger Aeolus RSL integrated barstem, while a Roval Rapide two-piece handlebar set comes with the SL7. The Emonda’s one-piece, integrated barstem has a cleaner, sleeker look, and is lighter than the Roval Rapide handlebar set. On the other hand, a two-piece handlebar and stem set allows for more customization of your handlebar rotation angle setup.

Seatpost

Both the Emonda and the SL7 use proprietary Trek and Specialized seatposts respectively. The Specialized seatpost is D-shaped, while the Trek seat mast cap is round.

The D-shaped seatpost should, in theory, make the SL7 a more comfortable ride. In reality, SL7 is stiffer and harsher than the Emonda.

Groupset

There’s no real difference between the two bikes here. You can outfit either one with a Shimano groupset or an SRAM groupset. The only main difference here is that you can’t buy the Tarmac SL7 S-Works bike equipped with lower-level groupsets like SRAM Force and Shimano Ultegra. You need to buy a frameset and customize the components by yourself for that.

Wheels

The Tarmac SL7’s Roval Rapide is only available in one size (51 mm front depth, 60 mm rear depth) compared to the Emonda’s Bontrager Aeolus which is available in four sizes of rim depth (37 mm, 51 mm, 62 mm, and 75 mm).

That said, depending on the bike shop where you buy the Tarmac, they might allow you to swap the Roval Rapide with a much shallower Roval Alpinist (33 mm depth) if you prefer it.

Tires

The Specialized Tarmac SL7 comes fitted with Turbo or Turbo Cotton tires, while the Trek Emonda comes with the Bontranger R3 or R4 tire. The Turbo and Turbo Cotton tires have a lower rolling resistance than the Bontranger R3 and R4 respectively. The lower rolling resistance leads to less energy loss as the tire moves along, making you faster. However, the Bontranger R3 and R4 tires are more durable and long-lasting than Turbos which are known to be very fragile.

Saddle

The Emonda and the SL7 are both racing bikes. True to this purpose, they’re equipped with short, snub-nose saddles that put the rider in an aerodynamic position angled forward towards the ground. The Emonda uses the Bontranger Aeolus saddle and the SL7 uses the Specialized Power saddle. Both saddles are very popular on the market.

Tarmac SL7 vs Emonda Paint Job

The paint job you choose to put on your bike is, of course, a personal choice that doesn’t affect performance. 

That said, if you’re dead set on a certain color for your bike or if you value your bike’s looks highly, the Trek Project One program has far more customization options than the Specialized bike brand has on offer. Color personalization from Trek Project One does come at a higher cost.

Personalizing your bike may not have anything to do with performance, but it can be one of the most fun aspects of riding—it feels great to show off a cool, tricked-out bike to your riding buddies.

Another notable difference is the side logo on the highest-grade Tarmac SL7 frame that reads “S-Works” vs the lower-grade Tarmac SL7 which has the normal “Specialized” text. This is a little dirty trick by Specialized to differentiate their highest-grade carbon even though they share the same shape.

Ride Feel

The fact is that these bikes have very similar geometry, so their ride feel is quite similar too. If you select the same handlebar and stem dimensions on both bikes, they feel virtually the same to ride.

The Emonda and the Tarmac SL7 are meant to be lightweight, maneuverable, and fast with a reasonably high aerodynamic performance. They make tough climbs easier and offer stability and safety on fast descents.

Since they both use threaded frames to hold the bracket in place, they both lack stiffness in that area. Press-fitted frames like the Cannondale SuperSix EVO and the Giant TCR outcompete the Emonda and SL7 in this aspect. Between the SL7 and the Emonda, the SL7 feels stiffer during pedaling when the same crankset is installed.

Overall, neither the Emonda nor the SL7 shine in terms of the comfort on the front end. However, the SL7 has a beefier stem handlebar setup, making it better for sprinting than the Emonda. In another win for the SL7, the Emonda’s lighter barstem transfers more vibrations from uneven terrain, making it less comfortable on a rough road surface. 

The SL7’s D-shaped seatpost is theoretically stiffer during the side-to-side motion that cyclists do during pedaling out of the saddle. The D-shaped design is also meant to increase comfort on rough riding surfaces. In reality, while the SL7 does feel stiffer than the Emonda the Emonda’s back-end is more comfortable.

Which is the Better Bike?

Both the Trek Emonda and the Specialized Tarmac SL7 offer superior performance, responsive handling, and low weight. The bikes are so similar that the choice between them comes down to which one is a better fit for your body.

The frame geometry of the Emonda is better for riders who need a higher and shorter front end (though, you shouldn’t get the Bontrager RSL integrated handlebars), while the Tarmac SL7’s frame is lower down on the front end. The lower front on the SL7 means that many riders will need to add spacers below the stem so they can get a comparable stack height with the Emonda.

The performance difference between the two bikes skews slightly in favor of the SL7. If you’re absolutely set on the most aggressive, stiff, high-performance bike, the SL7 is better suited to your needs. If you’re comfortable with sacrificing a tad of performance for the sake of comfort, the Emonda may be the way to go for you.

The Project One Program from Trek gives the Emonda a clear advantage over the SL7 in customization options. Through Project One, Trek gives riders control of almost every aspect of their bike, offering a wide range of colors and letting them choose almost every component.

The Emonda SLR, a high-grade, lightweight, composite frame, is lighter than Specialized’s high-grade S-Works frame, giving Trek a slight edge in high-end frame choice. If you’re after a low-cost frame, however, Specialized has a lighter low-grade frame. The low-grade Emonda SL frame is heavier than the corresponding low-grade Tarmac SL7 frame.

The overall appearance of both bikes will appeal more or less to different riders’ tastes, and the differences between the two are slight enough that personal taste is a fine basis to make your choice. Both of these bikes are excellent for road cyclists and are great examples of modern bike design. Whichever choice you make, you won’t end up dissatisfied. 

So whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned cyclist, read on to find the perfect road bike under $2000 for your needs.

Important Criteria for a Sub-$2000 Road Bike

A bike priced at $2000 is by no means an entry-level road bike. That said, this is the first price point where you can expect a similar level of performance to the ones being used by athletes. It won’t be as fast as ten-thousand-dollar bikes, but the difference in speed is not that significant.

Geometry

The most vital part of any bicycle purchase is to buy a bike that suits your needs and intended purpose. Typically, entry-level road bikes will have more relaxed geometries and more compliant materials that make them comfortable over a longer distance. At sub-$2000, you will be able to decide between bikes that are more aggressive and speedier or laid-back and comfortable endurance bikes.

Some bikes have stiffer, more aggressive geometry that makes them better suited for racing, while other bikes are more upright and relaxed, making them easier for a beginner’s body or going for long rides.

Groupsets

Many budget road bikes are stocked with the 10-speed Shimano Tiagra, but at 2000 dollars, it is possible to stretch for Shimano 105 rim brake or even hydraulic disc brake. This is important as the upgrade from Tiagra to 105 is significant and noticeable.

Shimano 105 is a 12-speed groupset, which is now the standard for top-of-the-line road bikes (a while ago it was 11-speed). Groupsets are constantly evolving, and the performance of the current Shimano 105 is comparable to the top-of-the-line group sets from just 10 years ago.

An 11- or 12-speed groupset is more capable of growing with you as a rider because most high-end cycling components and wheels are designed for 11 or 12-speed systems. This means that buying a bike with Shimano 105 will open more doors for you in the future.

That said, having a 10-speed Tiagra doesn’t mean you’re slower. You will just have one fewer gear selection.

Some brands offer a mixed groupset to save cost. For example, they might use a non-hydraulic disc brake from Shimano or cheaper disc rotors, or cranks. Using different cranks may be fine if it means cheaper bikes, but avoid mechanical disc brakes at all costs.

Disc or Rim brakes?

This is a question that almost every road cyclist must ask themselves these days.

When it comes to braking performance, disc brakes are superior. They offer greater power and consistency. This is especially true in wet conditions when using carbon wheels. Disc brakes also provide greater clearance for wider tires, which improves comfort.

The cycling industry is already shifting heavily toward disc brakes. High-end brakes and components are increasingly designed with disc brakes in mind.

The benefit of rim brakes is primarily in their price. You may be able to purchase a better all-around bike for the same price because of the money you save. Higher quality wheels, components, and even frames may be available if you choose rim brakes.

The other benefit of rim brakes is that they are typically lighter than disc brakes. However, this is a narrow margin that most casual riders and weekend warriors don’t really notice.

Carbon or Aluminum Frame?

Another decision to make at the $2000 price point is whether to purchase a carbon fiber or aluminum frame. The industry standard for high-end road bikes is carbon fiber. Carbon bicycles can be made stiffer, lighter, and more aerodynamic than their aluminum counterparts. It can even be engineered to make a bike more compliant and comfortable while maintaining its other benefits.

The downside of carbon is that it is not an easy material to manufacture a bike with, so the price will be much higher than aluminum. Although, if you look at the eastern part of the world, you can find carbon bike frames at a much cheaper price.

That being said, aluminum is far from obsolete within the cycling industry. Aluminum is attractive to beginner and elite cyclists alike because of its durability and lower price. It is a much cheaper material to work with than carbon fiber and less prone to breaking after a hard impact.

It is possible to purchase a higher-quality aluminum road bike for the same price as a lower-quality carbon road bike. Aluminum is especially popular among those who want to do more adventurous riding on gravel or dirt, where durability and reliability are top priorities. If you plan to race in criteriums, aluminum can also be a better choice.

Now here’s our list of the top-rated road bikes under $2000:

1. Canyon Ultimate CF SL 7

The Canyon Ultimate CF SL 7 is one of the best-value carbon bikes for a prospective racer. The CF SL 7 delivers the same lightweight, high-end carbon fiber frame the pros use but with a dialed-back set of components.

This makes the Canyon Ultimate CF SL 7 the ideal option for racers and weekend warriors alike. Even with a lightweight and race-ready frame, the bike comes with a full Shimano 105 groupset.

Canyon can deliver this incredible value due to its direct sales strategy. By selling directly from manufacturer to customer, they can avoid the costs of brick-and-mortar retail. Thereby providing superior quality for the given price.

The downside to this strategy is that the customer needs to have a good idea of what they want out of their bike because you cannot test for size or ride feel. The CF SL 7 is also only offered with rim brakes at this price.

A disc brake model is available, but it does not meet the sub $2000 threshold.

Pros:

• High-end carbon frame at a budget price
• Race oriented geometry for those looking for peak performance

Cons:

• Aggressive geometry is not desirable for all riders
• Direct to the customer model requires knowledge of your sizing and riding needs before purchasing
• Disc brake model is over $2000
• Canyon bikes are almost always sold out

2. Ribble R872 Enthusiast

Ribble may not be one of the most well-known bicycle manufacturers, but they are gaining notoriety as a go-to brand for incredible value and performance.

The R872 is a high-end carbon road bike with a more relaxed fit. This is a fantastic option for the rider looking to go that little bit faster or a little bit further. The R872 is certainly not sluggish, and it is as capable of a long endurance day as it is with a speedy group ride or race.

The Enthusiast is also available in both rim brake and disc brake models, giving you the option to choose. The disc model comes with 28mm tires that offer greater comfort and stability.

Another advantage of purchasing from Ribble is its online bike builder program. This allows you to pick and choose the components on your selected frame, ensuring you get the exact bike you desire.

Pros:

• Disc and rim brake models are available for under $2000
• High-quality carbon bike with endurance geometry

Cons:

• Lesser-known brands may be harder to find in person

3. Trek Domane AL 5 Disc (or AL 4)

The Domane AL 5 Disc is the aluminum version of the same frame that Trek’s professional athletes use in the cobbled classics. The switch from Carbon Fiber to aluminum brings this bike to just over the $2000 price point with a Shimano 105 groupset.

This bike is as compliant and comfortable as it is race-ready. The high-end carbon version of the Domane is used by both the Trek Segafredo men’s and women’s world tour teams for the most challenging one-day classics. The Domane AL 5 is the aluminum version of this bike, maintaining the geometry of its carbon fiber counterpart. Its IsoSpeed carbon fork ensures it is incredibly efficient, while semi-aero tube shaping and lightweight aluminum make this bike responsive and race-ready. It also has fender and rack mounts for the more adventurous rider.

Pros:

• IsoSpeed technology makes this bike extremely comfortable
• Available with Shimano Tiagra as well, for an even more accessible price.

Cons:

• Exceeds the $2000 price point by a narrow margin for Shimano 105, if you really can’t spend more than $2000 there’s also Domane AL 4 with almost the exact same configuration except the Tiagra groupset.

4. Giant Contend/Liv Avail AR 1

As one of the largest bicycle manufacturers, Giant is another brand that can provide high-end value at an achievable price. The other benefit of Giant is their emphasis on women-specific bicycles through their sister brand Liv.

The Giant Contend AR1 and the Liv Avail AR 1 are essentially the same bike with the same purpose but built with slightly different geometries to account for the differences between a male and female body. These lightweight aluminum bikes come with Shimano 105 components, disc brakes, and endurance-focused geometries.

The extra-wide tire clearance of up to 38mm makes this bike particularly capable on rough terrain, gravel, and bumpy backroads.

Pros:

• Female-specific model available at the same price
• Offers the best value for the price

Cons:

• Endurance focused geometry may not be ideal for those who desire to race

5. Specialized Allez Elite

The Specialized Allez is closely tied to the resurgence of aluminum race bikes. The Allez is an all-around race-ready aluminum bike with a geometry that functions for a wide range of customers.

Whether you are looking for your first road bike or a dedicated race bike, the Specialized Allez Elite is a great place to start. Specialized has also said that they designed this frame to fit male and female bodies, meaning it should feel comfortable for most riders. This is also the first bike on this list stocked with an alternative to the Shimano 105 groupset. The Specialized Allez Elite comes with the SRAM Rival 11 speed groupset, the direct competitor of the Shimano 105 groupset. These are both 11-speed groupsets with lots of room to grow, and for most customers, the choice between the two comes down to feeling rather than performance.

Pros:

• Race oriented performance geometry
• Big player in the industry

Cons:

• Disc brakes are not available at this price point

6. Polygon Strattos S7

Polygon is an Indonesian bike manufacturer that’s been making waves in the cycling world over the past few years because of its low price and good quality carbon frames.

Unlike some other affordable Asian bike brands, Polygon has distributors all over the world, so you can test ride one of their bikes before buying it.

The Polygon Strattos S7 is an excellent road bike for the money. It features a lightweight carbon frame with Shimano 105 groupset and headset cable routing on the disc brake version making it look clean and sleek, although the disc brake S7 costs a little bit more than $2000.

This bike is perfect for beginner to intermediate cyclists who are looking for an affordable yet reliable road bike.

Pros:

• Excellent value for the money
• Carbon frame
• Clean cable routing on the Strattos S7 Disc

Cons:

• Disc brake S7 costs a little above $2000. Strattos S5 with an aluminum frame is an alternative if you prefer the disc brake. Frame material is the only difference between S5 and S7.
• Not a well-known brand in the west (yet?)

Future Upgrades and Add-ons

Spending $2000 on a road bike is a significant investment, and it is a good idea to aim for a bike that has the potential to grow with you and continue to meet your future needs.

So, where can you spend that extra bit of money down the line to improve your new rig? The most noticeable improvement that can be made to a $2000 road bike is the wheels.

Entry-level road bikes often come with heavy, sluggish wheels. A brand-new set of carbon wheels will completely transform the feel of your bike, even a modest investment in a mid-range set of wheels pays dividends. Unfortunately, high-end wheels can be as expensive as an entry-level bike, but there are many reputable Chinese carbon wheels that are much cheaper but still reliable.

If you are looking for the best bang for your buck, there are a handful of other cheap upgrades that will transform your riding experience.

Perhaps the most significant of these is tire choice. Tires can improve the feel of a bike almost as much as a new wheelset. They also allow you to fine-tune your bike toward its intended purpose. You could purchase wider tires to improve comfort and stability drastically or high-end race tires with low rolling resistance to gain free speed. Upgrading to a tubeless setup will help you avoid flat tires and allow you to lower your air pressure even more.

Another significant upgrade you can make right away is to your contact points. A bicycle has three contact points; the handlebars, seat, and pedals. Naturally, each of these places you connect to the bike influences your ride quality and the sensations in your body. Finding a comfortable seat and an appropriately sized handlebar can completely change your experience.

This is especially true for female cyclists who often require female-specific bike seats and narrow handlebars to feel comfortable. Unless you purchase a female-specific bike, these will have to be added down the line.

Combine these upgrades with a decent bike fitting session, and you can make an unfamiliar bike suddenly feel like it was made for you!

All three bikes are amazing machines, but they each have their own unique features that may make them better suited for your needs. In this article, we will discuss the differences between these three bikes so that you can make an informed decision about which one is right for you!

The Short Answer

– Tarmac is lightweight, aero, and has an aggressive geometry. If you’re looking for a race-ready, all-around bike, Tarmac is the answer.

– Roubaix is designed for endurance riding and offers a more comfortable geometry. If you plan on doing long rides or touring, maybe some off-road riding, then Roubaix is the best option.

– Aethos is a super lightweight disc brake bike. If you care a lot about the weight of your bike, or if you love the classic round tubes style, then Aethos is for you.

Okay, if that’s too short for you, let’s expand more about each bike.

Specialized Tarmac: The All-Around Race-Ready Bike

The Specialized Tarmac is a race-oriented bike designed to perform on every type of terrain – from flat roads to steep climbs and everything in between. It has an aggressive geometry, aero tubes, and it’s pretty lightweight too.

Why you should choose the Tarmac:

– You are looking for a race-oriented bike with a decent weight

– You want an aggressive geometry and quick handling bike that allows you to go low and fast

Why you should not choose the Tarmac:

– If comfort matters the most to you, this might not be the best option. The Tarmac is stiff, which is an important attribute for a race bike, especially during sprints. However, as a consequence, it will not give you the most comfortable ride.

– You are looking for a bike to do some off-road riding. The Tarmac is best on…well, the tarmac. But it doesn’t have as much clearance as the Roubaix for wider tires, nor does it have the “Future Shock” vibration dampening technology.

Specialized Roubaix: The Comfortable Endurance Machine

The Roubaix is the Specialized’s endurance bike, with a more relaxed geometry and added vibration dampening features. This makes it great for long days in the saddle or some light off-roading.

Why you should choose the Roubaix:

– You want a comfortable bike for long rides or touring. The geometry is more relaxed and upright, with a longer wheelbase, which makes it easier to stay in control at higher speeds or on rough terrain like gravel roads.

– You want a bike that can handle some light off-road riding. The Roubaix has wider tire clearance and the “Future Shock” vibration dampening technology, which makes it better suited for gravel roads or trails than the Tarmac.

– You’re a beginner cyclist looking for a bike for casual riding

Why you should not choose the Roubaix:

– You are looking for a race bike. The Roubaix may give you the most comfortable ride, but it’s not better than Tarmac for a road race and it’s not made for a gravel race like the Specialized Diverge (or even Crux).

– If you are looking for a lightweight bike, the Roubaix is not the lightest option on the market.

Specialized Aethos: The Ultra Lightweight Bike

The Aethos is the lightest bike in the Specialized lineup. In fact, it is the lightest disc brake bike on the market right now. It’s not made for racing, but the lack of weight may as well help you win a climbing race.

Why you should choose the Aethos:

– You only care about weight, not some UCI rules, and just want the lightest bike in your stable.

– You love the classic round tube look and want a bike that has that style, but also with a disc brake for better braking performance.

– You dislike the all-integrated-and-proprietary components which plague many modern bikes.

– You’re looking for a comfortable bike with a slightly more relaxed geometry, but still have the ride characteristics of a pure road bike

Why you should not choose the Aethos:

– You’re a racer looking for an aero, stiff, quick-handling bike that is made for racing.

– You want to do some off-road riding. The Aethos is not made for it, and it has less tire clearance than the Tarmac or Roubaix.

What About the Specialized Allez Sprint?

The Allez Sprint is another road bike from Specialized. It’s an alloy road bike with aggressive geometry and some aero profiles, a rare breed in the bicycle market.

The best thing about Allez Sprint is its price-to-performance ratio. Sure, it’s more expensive than other alloy bikes, but the geometry, stiffness, and aero profile will help you go faster in a race. Plus, because it is made of alloy, you can crash and dent it and still ride the bike safely – unlike carbon frames.

If you race criteriums, where people get so aggressive and you don’t want to risk ruining a super expensive carbon bike, Allez Sprint is the bike for you.

Even if you don’t race, it’s still a great bike as an alternative to lower-grade carbon bikes.

What About the Specialized Venge?

Before SL7, the Tarmac is Specialized’s lightweight race-oriented bike and Venge is the aero road bike. Since then, Specialized has combined the Venge’s aerodynamics and the lightness of Tarmac into one bike.

Even after Specialized killed the Venge, it is still one of the most popular aero road bikes in the market. It still looks gorgeous and modern up to this day and performs great for its intended purpose.

If you want a fast bike for a flat race, Venge is for you. However, your only option right now to get a Venge is to buy it from a secondhand market.

What is S-Works?

You may have noticed that there are different variants of the same bike, such as Specialized Tarmac S-Works and Specialized Tarmac Pro. The higher the variant, the more expensive the bike is.

S-Works is Specialized’s top-of-the-line variant for its bikes and components. The difference between S-Works and Pro is that the former uses higher modulus carbon fiber resulting in a lighter frame. If you buy a complete bike, the components are also upgraded.

Is it worth it to buy an S-Works frame? Maybe, maybe not. The price difference is pretty significant, so it depends on how much weight savings are you willing to trade with money.

Also, probably the most important thing for most people, S-Works bikes have S-Works decals on their bottom tube whereas non-S-Works bikes have Specialized decals. So, your friends and people you ride with will know whether you ride a super expensive bike or just an expensive bike.

So, Which Road Bike is Right for You?

Now that you know the differences between Specialized’s three (or, five) road bikes, which one should you choose?

You may have noticed that we’ve made some recommendations for each of the road bikes. But without knowing what kind of rider you are, we can’t specifically tell you which one to buy because it really depends on your needs and preferences, such as what kind of terrain you ride on most and how aggressive of a rider you are.

If you want a general recommendation, we would say that the Tarmac is the best all-around Specialized road bike for most road cyclists.

Not to say that Aethos and Roubaix aren’t great bikes too, but they are more niche and less versatile than the Tarmac.

Well, first, in what conditions are you going to ride regularly? 

MTBs stands for mountain bikes., so you’re more likely to see hardtail and full suspension MTBs in the mountains or off-road. However, that doesn’t mean they can’t be used on the road.

In fact, MTBs perform better on the road than road bikes perform off the road. So, if you can only buy ONE bike for all types of road, an MTB purchase makes more sense. Sure, modern road bikes can manage some gravels thanks to their bigger tire clearances, but without proper suspensions don’t expect a comfortable (or safe) off-road ride.

Road bikes are better in the city, but not so substantially that you can rule out MTBs just yet. (Unless you’re road racing, of course). Depending on how you ride, you may find that, despite the performance differences, you prefer the MTB for your daily commute. 

We’ll explore a few details of such choices more closely here.

How Much Slower is an MTB on the Road Compared to a Road Bike?

There are two main factors in determining the speed difference between road bikes and MTBs:

• Trail smoothness
• Level of slope

On very bad tarmac, MTBs can be faster. But it’s hard to calculate and you probably won’t ride on such roads anyway, so let’s conveniently ignore the first factor.

The biggest advantage of a road bike is the aerodynamic, so the slower you go (i.e., going uphill) the smaller the speed difference will be. At a 3% grade or higher, MTBs are about 10-15% slower. On flat terrain, they’ll be more than 15% slower.

Despite that number, the real-life difference is somewhat negligible. If you have a 30-minute commute, you’re looking at 5 minutes of difference more or less. That’s a huge difference in Tour de France, but not when you go on a casual ride or a commute.

The bottom line is, there is not a big difference in speed between a road bike and MTB for casual riders. Also, if you ride a bike for a workout, you might like the harder effort you need to exert with an MTB.

The Benefits of Riding MTBs on the Road

So certainly, road bikes are better for speed, but that doesn’t mean they’re your ideal choice in all scenarios. Believe it or not, there are plenty of advantages to using MTBs on the road, such as:

MTBs keep you more upright

MTBs are easier on your back than road bikes. 

With a road bike, you’re always going to be pitched forward. This is good for lessening aerodynamic drags, but it can be tiring for your back. If you want to sit up and rest, giving your back a break, you’ll have to balance with your knees while removing your hands from the handlebars, which can be dangerous. 

Mountain bikes put you in a more upright position to start with. Endurance-oriented road bikes are more upright than performance-oriented road bikes, but still not as upright as an MTB.

MTBs are easier to control and can be safer

MTBs are designed for rough roads and technical descents, so they have to be easy to control. The flat, wide handlebars combined with short stems make the MTB easier to steer than a road bike.

Also, as we explored earlier, road bikes are 15% faster than MTBs, so you’ve got 15% less time to make a correction if something happens that requires you to think fast. Ultimately, MTBs are safer in the city than road bikes as a result.

We’re not saying that road bikes are dangerous, they certainly are not. But if you know you have a slower reaction speed than other people, MTBs can be safer on the road.

MTBs are designed for durability, road bikes for speed

Have you ever lifted a road bike? They are crazy light, especially the ones made with the highest grade carbon. You can even lift those bikes with one finger.

Being designed for speed means road bikes are lighter and, consequently, less durable. They have thinner tubes with less material to keep the weight low. If you hit a curb head-on at full speed, the fork can actually break and you’ll likely pitch over the handlebars. It’s not uncommon to hear stories about carbon road bikes and wheels cranking when they hit potholes.

MTBs are designed to take heavier hits than potholes. Even at full speed, you might be able to sustain the impact without taking any damage on the bike.

If durability is important to you, MTBs can be a better choice.

If the road surface isn’t ideal, MTBs are more comfortable

These days, road bikes can easily fit 28 mm tires or wider, so you don’t feel road vibrations as much as in the olden days. But, MTBs have robust shock absorbers, road bikes do not.

If you’re on a rough road with a road bike, you’ll still feel road imperfection on your hand, feet, and butt. Meanwhile, on the MTB, it’ll be smooth and comfortable, especially given the ample seat beneath you.

Not just more comfortable, MTB’s tires are also less likely to get flats while riding on a rough road.

How to Make Your MTB Faster on the Road

The main issue with MTBs in reference to road bikes is speed. If you can correct that problem, you’re in good shape. Here are four ways to do that:

Slick tires increase speed

Mountain bikes usually come with knobby tires. Slick tires are designed without the bumpy texture on tires designed for off-road riding. If you’re using your MTB in the city primarily, switch to slick tires and you’ll see more speed.

A larger chainring can help you go faster

MTBs are designed for riding uphills, so they have typically smaller chainrings and bigger cassettes than road bikes so you can climb easier. If you want to go fast on the flat road, you’ll need the opposite: a large chainring and a small cassette. That’s just how the gear ratio works.

With bigger chainrings, you can go farther for each pedal stroke, so you don’t need to spin your legs too quickly. This is better for energy efficiency. 

Keep in mind, though, that the increase in speed by using larger chainring isn’t “free”. You still need to exert more energy to gain more speed. You probably don’t need a larger chainring right away if you’re a beginner cyclist.

Lowering the handlebars to get more aerodynamic

To go faster, your biggest enemy is the wind. You often see road bikers ride in a peloton to minimize the effect of wind on riders in the rear.

That’s also the main reason why road bikes have such low handlebars. Air will pull on you when you’re reaching high speed, so if you lower down your body and become more streamlined, you go faster. 

On an MTB, lowered handlebars can similarly reposition your body in a way that reduces drag.

Narrower handlebars also help

Same as lowering the height, installing narrower handlebars reduce the resistance you make in the air as you cut through it, allowing you to slip through with less resistance.

Keep in mind, though, that narrow handlebars will also reduce your control.

Lastly, Perhaps Consider a Different Type Bike

MTBs are okay to use on the road in the sense that there’s no danger or any premature wear when you ride them on the tarmac. But if you don’t have a bike yet and thinking of getting one, perhaps it’s not the best option for road cycling.

Here are some alternatives if you want to ride primarily on the road and don’t want a road bike:

Gravel Bike

Gravel bikes are a fine compromise between road bikes and MTBs. 

Gravel bikes have wider tires than road bikes, giving them better grip and stability in rough terrain, and making them more comfortable over uneven ground. They are more upright than a road bike, but they also come equipped with a dropbar, unlike MTBs. This means you still have the option to position your body lower and go faster on them. 

Gravel bikes don’t have big suspensions as MTBs do, but some brands have developed neat tricks to reduce road surface vibrations on their gravel bikes.

They’re a good balance between road and MTB. So if you like to go on any type of road without going extreme on either side, a gravel bike might be perfect for you.

Gravel bikes are also good for commuting because of the more upright position compared to a road bike. The dropbar is also more comfortable than a flat bar.

Hybrid Bike

Hybrid bikes are also a mid-way between a mountain bike and a road bike, but unlike gravel bikes, they use a flat handlebar.

But not all hybrids are made the same. Some hybrid bikes are made for workouts and others are better for commuting. Unlike road, mountain, and gravel bikes, there are no criteria that define a hybrid other than flat bars and no suspensions.

If you want to buy a hybrid bike, make sure you know what you’ll be using it for and get the right type of hybrid.

Folding Bike

The biggest advantage of a folding bike is that it can fold. So if you need to use public transportation while commuting or if you want to pack it in a small storage, a folding bike might be the best option.

However, they have some disadvantages. First, folding bikes don’t handle as well as other types of bikes, so it’s not ideal for sports where you will ride it at a higher speed. Second, they are heavy. You might think that since they are small, folding bikes are probably lightweight. Nope, folding bikes are heavier than other types of bikes.

Fixie

Fixie is a type of bicycle with fixed gear. They only have a single-speed configuration, and you can’t change gear if you need to go faster or slower. Instead, you change your cadence.

They also don’t have brakes, so to stop, you need to stop pedaling. Because of that, in some countries, they are illegal to ride on public roads.

The best thing about a fixie is its simplicity. Without so many components in the drivetrain, maintaining a fixie is much easier than a normal bike.