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• Part 1: Your Bike
• Part 2: Your Body

Part 1: Make Your Bike Faster

We’ll start with your bike first, because that’s the more fun one, right? I will try to include every little gain that can be had, which includes upgrades that will make you the tiniest bit faster at the most expensive cost. Worth it or not, that’s yours to decide.

Here are the top tips to boost your bike’s speed and performance:

1. Use High-Quality Tires

Consider purchasing a set of high thread-per-inch (TPI) tires which can save you 10-20 watts in rolling resistance compared to entry level ones. They can be surprisingly expensive, but these are the best bang for your buck when it comes to speed gains.

Some brands sell 3 types of their top-tier tires: wet weather, racing/time trial, and all-rounder. Wet weather tires have better grip and are more durable, but slower. Racing tires are thinner, lighter, and have lower rolling resistance, but they wear out faster. The all-rounder is somewhere in the middle.

Some of the most popular high TPI tires are Continental GP5000, Vittoria Corsa, and Pirelli P-Zero.

2. Go Tubeless

It’s been proven by third-party testers that tubeless tires are faster than their tubed counterparts. This is due to the elimination of friction caused by inner tubes inside your tires. They are also lighter as a complete system.

As a comparison, a pair of GP5000 tubeless is 2-4 watts faster than GP5000 with tubes.

3. Use The Right Tire Pressure

It is a case of finding the optimal balance – too high, and the ride becomes uncomfortable; too low, and you increase the risk of puncture. And it’s not a one-size-fits-all setting; it depends on your weight, terrain smoothness, and weather conditions.

Heavier cyclists should use higher tire pressures than lighter cyclists, as they need to support more weight. Additionally, rougher terrain requires higher pressure to prevent pinch flats if you use inner tubes, but not too high that it increases your rolling resistance. In wet conditions, tire pressure needs to be lowered slightly for better grip.

4. Follow the 105% Rule

If you haven’t heard the 105% rule when it comes to tire width, this means that the optimal rim width is 105% of the width of your tire. In other words, your tire should be about 5% narrower than the rim width. This is to maintain the tear drop shape which is considered to be the most aerodynamic.

For example, if you have a rim width of 31mm measured from the outer walls, then a tire with a width of around 29mm would be ideal for maximum aerodynamic benefits. Anything wider will have a chance to disturb the streamlined flow and prevent recapturing the air back into smooth airflow again.

Keep in mind that wheelset manufacturers usually list their internal rim width (inner side measurements), and what you need is the external rim width.

5. Clean Regularly

A dirty drivetrain can dramatically increase friction between 5 and 10 watts compared to a clean one. That’s why keeping your chain and cassette clean is essential.

A dirty drivetrain also accelerates wear and tear. The accumulation of dirt, grime, and debris acts like an abrasive paste, grinding down the gears, chains, and cogs. As a result, components lose efficiency and wear out quicker, leading to more frequent replacements.

6. Use a High-Quality Chain Lube

Most cyclists buy whatever lube they are selling at the local bike store. Well, not all lubes are made equal. Low-quality lube, like the factory grease that your chain came prepared from the shelve, can do more harm than good, attracting dirt and debris to your drivetrain. Always strip factory grease and use chain lube that is actually good.

The current best chain lube in my experience the Silca Synergetic. It’s expensive, but you don’t have to use as much compared to other lubes to fully coat your chain. In my experience, it attracts dirt significantly less than others, keeping your chain smoother for longer.

7. Wax Your Chain

Speaking of lube, chain wax is the best way to achieve the lowest drivetrain friction. It’s a bit more complicated than normal lubes, but it will save you watts and keep your drivetrain clean. The only downside is how fast it washes off when riding under the rain.

Immersive waxing is the gold standard, but drip wax like the Silca Super Secret or CeramicSpeed UFO Drip is much easier to do regularly and they are still better than normal lubes.

8. Use Aero Handlebars

Switching from round handlebars to aero handlebars with a flat top can make a significant difference in terms of energy expenditure. Wind tunnel tests suggest that aero handlebars could save between 4 to 6 watts at a speed of 40km/h compared to traditional round handlebars.

Integrated barstem such as above will add more to the watt savings, but you need to nail your bike fit down first before getting one.

9. Use Narrow Handlebars

Usually, new bicycles come with handlebars that measure around 38-42 centimeters. This width is selected because it matches the average shoulder width of most people, which is typically around 40 centimeters.

To increase your speed, consider using a narrower handlebar than the one you’re currently using. This can help minimize your frontal area and reduce your aerodynamic drag. Try experimenting with extremely narrow handlebar sizes like 36cm or even 34cm for women if you can find them. Though they may feel a bit strange and uncomfortable at first, you might start getting used to them as time goes on.

10. Cut Your Bar Tapes Shorter

Keeping the top area of your handlebar naked without bar tapes can save you exactly 1 watt. It’s not much but it doesn’t cost you anything other than a little bit of comfort.

11. Upgrade Your Wheels

Upgrading your wheels to a lighter and deeper rim variant can significantly improve your speed. Lighter carbon wheels reduce the overall weight of the bike by up to 1kg compared to aluminum ones, which can make a noticeable difference in general feel and when climbing. You’ll find pedaling uphill easier and less tiring, thereby preserving your energy for longer rides.

Furthermore, wheels with deeper rims are designed to be aerodynamic by reducing air resistance when cycling at high speeds, allowing you to maintain your pace with less effort.

Despite the initial investment, the long-term benefits can make it a worthwhile investment for serious cyclists.

12. Buy a Faster Bike Frame

By this point, some of you might want to call me nuts for suggesting this, but I promised to not pull my punches and it is the truth that some bike frames are faster than others. Manufacturers spend a lot of time in the wind tunnel developing bike frames that are aerodynamically more efficient.

Third-party tests have time and again proven that aero-shaped frames can save you more than 10 watts compared to frames with round tubes. Considering the shape of most bike frames hasn’t changed much since 2020, this can also be a worthwhile long-term investment.

13. Install OSPW

Truth is, oversized pulley wheels (OSPW) are the equivalent of jewelry for your bike. It’s not clear if it actually gives you an advantage other than making your bike look cooler. However, since there are many affordable OSPWs today, I feel like it’s worth a mention.

OSPWs, with their larger diameter, reduce the angle of the chain bends around it, thereby decreasing friction. This benefit is minor, around 1-2 watts saving, and might even be negated by the aerodynamic disadvantage of having a larger CdA.

14. Upgrade to Ceramic Bearings

There are in total 3 different places where installing ceramic bearings can make your drivetrain more efficient: wheel hubs, pulley wheels, and bottom brackets. Using ceramic bearings in all these parts can save you around 6 watts.

That said, high-quality ceramic bearings for bottom brackets are not worth it for everyone and are not an area where I would advise going for budget options to save money. It’s far better to have steel bearings than cheap ceramics because it’s all about the bearings’ smoothness, and making smooth bearings costs a lot of money.

15. Upgrade to Lighter Components

The general rule of thumb is that for every 100 grams you shave from your bike, you can go up a 5% gradient or steeper 0.01 kph faster. If that sounds small to you, wait till you hear that even on a short 5 km climb a bike can finish ~20 seconds faster than a bike 1kg heavier with the same power.

For a comprehensive list of bicycle components that can be upgraded to lighter weights without breaking the bank, check out this article: Weight Weenie Upgrades.

Part 2: Make Yourself Faster

Now that we’ve discussed how to optimize your bike’s performance, let’s switch gears to focus on you – the cyclist. Most tips in this part are cheaper than the previous, but they often require higher effort, which can be good news or bad news for some.

Here are some tips to help you improve your speed and overall cycling performance.

16. Wear a Skinsuit

More than 70% of drag comes from your body. Before we even talk about skinsuits, if you’re not already wearing snug jerseys that fit perfectly during your daily rides, then the other upgrades mentioned in this article are insignificant. They pale in comparison to the importance of proper attire.

As for skinsuits, consider wearing them for racing. A skinsuit is a one-piece, skin-tight garment that covers the body from the neck down to the thighs or knees, commonly used in time trials and track, but they are now used in road races too. It’s a bit too much to wear during normal rides, but the watt savings during the race are worth it. Which is why all pro teams on the grand tours wear skinsuits.

17. Wear Aero Helmet

When discussing aero helmets, people generally refer to two types. The first type is commonly used in time trials, often paired with time trial bikes. The second type is used in road cycling, which is not as aero as TT helmets, but has more ventilation to allow your head to cool down during longer rides.

These aero road helmets can save you more than 10 watts compared to normal-shaped or lightweight road bike helmets.

18. Wear Aero Socks

Because your leg is spinning while pedaling, it creates the most significant area of turbulence, and therefore the most drag. So this cheapest item in your wardrobe might actually save you the most watts. Using aero socks can save you about 10 watts compared to normal socks.

Sock length matters too. Your legs aren’t aero, so the longer the socks, the more watts you save, which is why the UCI has a rule limiting sock length to just below the mid-calf. But, if you don’t participate in a UCI-sanctioned race, this can be an advantage.

Some people hate the look of aero and tall socks, though, and I get that.

19. Shave Your Legs

Speaking of legs and turbulence, your leg hair can also create drag. Many professional cyclists shave their legs for this reason, and it’s not just for aesthetic purposes. Shaving your legs can save you about 5 to 10 watts, depending on the length and thickness of your leg hair.

20. Wear Gloves

Unlike legs, hands don’t move much, but they are the first part of the body to come into contact with the air. So wearing aero-optimized gloves can help reduce drag and save you a few watts. Plus, it also provides extra padding and grip on your handlebars.

21. Get Lower

Lowering your frontal area by reducing your handlebar spacer or installing a stem with a steeper angle is a popular way to improve aerodynamics on the bike. Lowering your hand position by one centimeter can save approximately 3 watts when traveling at a speed of 40 km/h. Considering new bikes often have 3-5 cm of spacers, that’s 9-15 watts saving just by “slamming” your stem.

That said, it’s essential to find a balance between aerodynamics and comfort. Lowering your handlebar position beyond your comfort level prevents you from holding your watts on a long ride.

22. Practice Aero Hand Position

There are two (legal) hand positions that will give you aerodynamic advantage:

• Holding the drops
• Placing your forearms horizontally on the hood while holding the top of the shifter (pictured below)

The latter is faster and more aero, but holding the drops is safer because you can still pull the brake Choose the one that is most suitable for the given situation.

The “fake TT bar” and “lever hook” positions used to be the fastest but are now banned by UCI for safety.

23. Increase Your Base Mileage

The best way to improve your speed and endurance on the bike is by simply increasing your mileage. This means slowly building up your distance every week, so your body becomes more efficient at using oxygen and energy.

If you want to get fast at 100 km races, then you need to be used to riding for more than 100 km regularly. No amount of watt-saving tricks can skip this process.

The rule of thumb for base mileage is to increase your total distance by no more than 10% each week, so your body has time to adapt and recover, then take an easy week every fourth week.

24. Do Some Intervals

Have you ever met cyclists who can ride for a really long distance, but can’t ride very fast? That’s because you need to train your system to push at a higher speed than you normally do. This is where interval training comes in.

There are different lengths of interval depending on which system you want to train, but essentially they all are short bursts of high intensity followed by a recovery period.

VO2 max intervals can be done on the bike by pushing yourself for 3-6 minutes and then resting for the same amount of time before repeating it 5 more times or more. Threshold intervals are typically 15-30 minutes long repeated 2-3 times with around 5 minutes of recovery.

For serious cyclists, it’s recommended to do intervals every week but not more than two sessions per week to avoid overtraining.

25. Drop Your Body Weight

Power-to-weight ratio is critical in cycling because of gravity. The lighter you are, the easier it is to go faster during hill climbing. Weight matters less on the flats, but it can still affect your speed via rolling resistance.

Remember when I said for every 100 grams you can shave, you’ll gain an additional 0.01kph going uphill? Dropping pounds or kilograms of your weight is relatively easy compared to shaving grams from your bike which can cost thousands of dollars. It’s the cheapest way to get faster, and it might be good for your health too!

That said, everyone has their race-ideal weight. Drop your weight too much, and you will start seeing a decrease in your power-to-weight ratio and your health in general.

26. Fuel and Hydrate Properly

Since this topic is quite important and extensive, it’s probably best to dig deeper into the details of fueling, hydration, and nutrition for cyclists in a separate article. Check out this article for more in-depth information on the subject.

27. Improve Your Mental Toughness

To go fast, you gotta be willing to push through the pain and discomfort.

While physical training is important, so is mental toughness. Cycling requires not only a strong body but also a strong mind to push through the tough moments and keep going, especially when you’re in a hard training, breakaway, or attacking situation.

Different people find different ways to improve their mental toughness, some may use mantras or visualization techniques, while others may focus on their breathing and staying present in the moment. The key is finding what works for you and incorporating it into your training.

28. Go to the Gym

Studies show that complementing cycling workouts with strength training can lead to improvements in cycling power. These benefits are attributed to increased muscle fiber size, enhanced neuromuscular efficiency, and improved force production.

In addition, strength training reduces the risk of injury, enhances body composition, and boosts metabolic health.

Focus on exercises that target the major muscle groups used in cycling, including the core, quadriceps, hamstrings, calves, and glutes.

29. Slow Down Most of Your Rides

It’s important to do low-intensity rides in your training plan. These slower rides allow you to do two things:

• Ride long distances and improve your aerobic capacity
• Recover well and perform at your best during your hard days

Low-intensity rides should be at a conversational pace. You should be able to speak in complete sentences without gasping for breath. If you have a heart rate monitor or power meter and know your training zones, these slow rides should be between zone 1 and lower zone 2.

30. Taper Properly Before a Race

I’ve seen so many cyclists cram their training 1-2 weeks before the race because of the lack of a proper training plan. This is a big mistake.

If you train hard today, you don’t get stronger 3 days or a week later. Aerobic adaptations take 8-12 days to happen, sometimes more depending on many factors like diet and sleep. That means, training hard 1-2 weeks before a race won’t do you any good. This will only leave you exhausted and burnt out on race day.

Instead, gradually taper your training volume and intensity as the race approaches. This means reducing your mileage and effort level a week or two before the event, allowing your body to fully recover and prepare for peak performance on race day.

31. Practice Racing Techniques

Cycling, especially in a race, is a game of energy conservation. You need to understand how to ride tactically and efficiently to save your energy when you need it the most. No matter how strong or fast you are, you can’t win a race if you don’t know how to use your energy wisely.

Racing techniques include drafting, cornering, attacking, and maintaining a steady pace line. By incorporating these skills into your routine rides, you’ll be able to ride faster while spending less energy than your competition.

This guide will shed light on this topic and help you understand the connection between the rotations of your pedal and those healthful strides. In this article, we’ll provide a step-by-step guide on how to convert bike miles to steps.

TL;DR? A rule of thumb

If you don’t want to go through all the calculations below, here’s a general rule of thumb: one hour of low-intensity cycling is the equivalent of walking for about 6000 steps. The faster you can cycle or the more intense your cycling is, the more walking steps you can achieve per hour.

That number is obtained by assuming the average step length is 75 cm (~1333 steps per kilometer), the walking speed is 4.5 km/h, and the cycling speed with a road bike on an easy or commuting pace is 20-25 km/h. To follow the 10,000 steps recommendation, you will have to cycle for about 100 minutes per day (1 hour and 40 minutes). Of course, this is a broad generalization, just like the CDC recommendation itself.

If you want a better approximation to convert cycling mileage to walking steps, use the calculator below.

Bike Miles to Steps Calculator

The difference in effort and intensity between bike miles and walking steps

Biking miles is not the same as walking steps. Walking steps and cycling miles carry different weights and intensity levels in terms of calorie burning and cardiovascular exercise because going the same distance on the bike takes less time and effort compared to walking.

To illustrate this, consider a 5-kilometer route. If you were to bike this distance, it would take 15 minutes of cycling at an average speed of 20 km/h. However, walking the same distance at an average walking speed of 5 km/h would require about an hour. Biking is a more time-efficient mode of transportation, and it’s less intensive than walking, so you can’t compare the two exercises using time and distance alone.

Using the example above, if your cycling speed is 20 km/h and your walking speed is 5 km/h, your cycling speed is about 4 times faster than walking. So if you want to know the equivalent walking steps for a given cycling workout, you will need to divide the distance or the duration of the cycling by 4. Using this new distance or duration, you can find how many steps you’d have taken to walk that far/long.

Let’s learn how to do that step by step.

1: Determine your average step length and walking speed

Before converting your bike miles to steps, determine your average step length and walking speed. Step length, also known as stride length (usually used in running) is the distance between the heel of one foot and the heel of the other foot when taking a step.

If you wear a smartwatch, like an Apple Watch or Garmin, it may already track your step length and walking speed which can be found on the device’s companion app (Apple Health or Garmin Connect). If you don’t have a smartwatch, here’s how to do it.

To find your average step length, walk a known distance (for example, 100 yards or 100 meters) while counting the number of your steps. Divide the distance you walked by the number of steps you took. The result is your average stride length.

To find your walking speed, use a stopwatch while walking the distance then divide the distance by the time it took you to walk it. This will give you your walking speed, which you will convert to mph or km/h in the next step.

2: Convert step length and walking speed

Once you have determined your average step length, you can calculate how many steps it takes to complete a mile or a kilometer.

In metrics, divide 1000 by your step length in meters or divide 100,000 by your step length in centimeters. That’s the number of steps you need to take to walk one kilometer.

For imperial folks, divide 5280 by your step length in feet, or divide 1760 by your step length in yards, or divide 63360 by your step length in inches. That’s the number of steps you need to take to walk one mile.

In case you need the speed unit conversion, here it is:

To convert walking speed from meters per second to kilometers per hour, multiply it by 3.6.

To convert walking speed from feet per second to miles per hour, multiply it by 0.6818. From yards per second to miles per hour, multiply by 2.0454. To convert from inches per second to miles per hour, you multiply by 0.0568182.

3: Compare your cycling speed and walking speed

Choose one of your cycling workouts that you want to convert to walking steps. Since we’re comparing cycling to walking, ideally you should choose one of your easy cycling workouts on a flat road. Take note of the average speed of that cycling workout, or if you only have the distance and time, divide them to find the speed.

Next, divide your cycling speed by your walking speed. This will give you a ratio of how many times faster you are while cycling compared to walking. For example, if your cycling speed is 20 km/h and your walking speed is 4 km/h, then you are 5 times faster while cycling than walking (20/4=5).

4: Calculate the equivalent walking steps

Now that you know how much faster you are cycling compared to walking, divide your cycling distance by that ratio, and finally multiply it by your number of steps per kilometer or mile from step 2.

For example, if your cycling distance is 30 kilometers, you bike 5 times faster than walking, and you take 1500 steps to walk 1 kilometer, then 30/5*1500 is 9000. So, your 30-kilometer cycling workout is equal to walking 9000 steps.

What if you’re on a spin bike / stationary bike?

If your stationary bike has a screen with virtual distance, then you can use that data for the calculation. If not, you can simply use the cycling time. Multiply the workout time with your walking speed and number of steps per kilometer or mile.

Alternative method: Calories Burned

Another way to compare the intensity of walking vs cycling is by looking at the number of Calories burned. The calculation can be done much faster using this method, but there are more assumptions made versus using the original method above because almost every workout tracker overestimates Calories burned.

To do this, you will need to walk for a specific duration (longer is better) with a smartwatch and see how many steps you’ve taken and how many Calories you burned. Divide the Calories by the number of steps, and this is how many Calories you burn each step.

Then go cycling and see how many Calories you burn throughout the workout. Divide this number by your Calories burned per step and that’s your equivalent of walking step for that cycling workout.

Impact on joints when cycling vs walking

Both cycling and walking are considered low-impact exercises, meaning they put less stress on your joints compared to high-impact activities like running. The difference is that, unlike walking, you can bike at high intensity without having a high impact on joints. This makes cycling a better training for cardiovascular health compared to walking for those with joint pain or injuries.

The impact of cycling on joints is lower than walking, but unless you have pre-existing joint issues, both activities should not cause any problems. People without mobility issues shouldn’t avoid high-impact exercises that involve running and jumping as they are beneficial for bone and joint health in the long term.

In this article, we traverse the world of bike upgrades, exploring those that can truly make a noticeable impact on your riding experience. Read on as we delve into the best investments to boost your performance on two wheels.

1. High-Performance Tires

High-performance tires like the popular Continental GP5000 can greatly improve your speed and comfort. These tires often have lower rolling resistance and better grip, which translates to more speed on the road.

They are expensive, sure, but dollar-per-dollar these are the best upgrades you can get for your bike. High-performance tires are typically made from quality materials and higher threads per inch (TPI) which increases the suppleness and overall quality of the tire. Moreover, high-performance tires often have puncture protection technology to prevent flats – a cyclist’s worst enemy.

2. Latex Inner Tubes

Switching from butyl to latex inner tubes can lead to a noticeable increase in performance, and especially comfort. Latex tubes are more elastic and thus have less rolling resistance, which can boost your speed and absorb road vibration better.

They do come with disadvantages such as being more prone to punctures and losing air pressure faster, so these are probably not the best for your everyday ride. You might also want to consider going tubeless if you want to improve speed and comfort, check out this article to weigh the pros and cons.

3. Deep-Profile Carbon Wheels

Deep-profile carbon wheels are expensive but often worth it for any serious cyclist. Their aerodynamic shape cuts through the wind more efficiently, helping you maintain higher speeds for longer periods. They are also lighter, which means you will expend less energy on your rides. Plus, they make your bike look awesome, which is always a bonus.

However, because of the price, deep-profile carbon wheels are not necessary for casual or recreational riders. If you’re on a tighter budget and looking to improve your overall speed and ride quality, high-performance tires should be a higher priority. Or consider a budget carbon wheelset from the Far East.

4. Flat Top Aero Handlebars

Aero handlebars which have flatter-shaped tops can shave around 5 watts over 40 km/h. If you already have rounded carbon handlebars, then replacing them with flat tops is not worth it. But if you’re looking to replace your alloy handlebars with carbon ones soon – which I do think is worth doing because of carbon fiber’s vibration-dampening property – might as well choose the most aero-shaped.

Also, some people agree that flatter-shaped handlebar tops are more comfortable when resting your hand.

5. Aero Helmet, Tight-fitting Jersey, and Aero Socks

Okay, these are not upgrades for your bike per se, but definitely a big upgrade to your overall riding experience. Aero helmets, tight-fitting jerseys, and aero socks are designed to streamline airflow around your body, which can significantly increase your speed.

The watt-saving you can get from these outfits outweigh the savings you get from more expensive items such as aero wheels. Plus, these items can be used on any bike, making it a more versatile and cost-effective upgrade.

6. Carbon Outsole Shoes

Another one that’s not a bike upgrade, but this is the last one, I promise. If you don’t have carbon shoes yet, this should be one of your highest priorities for speed and comfort. Carbon shoes are stiffer than their nylon counterparts, and they allow for more efficient power transfer from your feet to the pedals. Stiffer shoes also spread force more evenly on the soles of your feet and can reduce hot spots during longer rides.

Some people might have “debunked” these claims, but if you ask anyone who has tried carbon and non-carbon shoes, I’m 100% sure they will say the carbon ones feel better.

7. A Saddle That Fits You

A saddle that fits you well can dramatically improve your comfort and efficiency on the bike. It reduces the risk of discomfort and injury, allowing you to ride longer and faster.

You don’t need expensive saddles to be comfortable. That said, those 3D-printed saddles do feel much more comfortable. If you have excess money to spend and looking for ultimate comfort, give them a try.

Carbon rails on a saddle can also provide more comfort because carbon can absorb more vibration. And, they can save you up to 100 grams, which is a lot if you’re a weight weenie.

8. Higher-End Cassette

The cassette is probably one of the most overlooked upgrades in cycling. Higher-end cassettes are significantly lighter than entry-level ones. For example, the Shimano 105 cassette is 130 grams heavier than Dura-Ace. Some people might disagree, but some people can notice the weight reduction on the road.

Choosing a bigger or smaller cassette can also help improve your speed and ride quality. If you ride on a hilly road a lot, a small cassette and/or bigger chainrings can slow you down because the high cadence needed to turn the wheels will sore your muscles faster. On the flip side, using a big cassette on a flat road is inefficient because you might not get the right gear combination with your preferred cadence.

9. Power Meter

If you want to increase your speed by improving your training quality, purchasing a power meter should be your top priority.

A power meter allows you to accurately measure your effort in real-time, unlike a heart rate monitor which is usually delayed by around 10 seconds. This can help you train more effectively and make significant improvements in your speed and endurance. Plus, with a power meter, you can also easily track your progress and set measurable goals without relying on external factors.

10. Waxed Chains

Waxed chains are the gold standard for reducing drivetrain friction, leading to a smoother and faster ride. They require more effort at first application, but less effort for ongoing maintenance, and your chain will last longer than traditionally-lubed chains.

Waxed chains can save you more than 10 watts, which is a lot by itself, and unlike aero drags, you can’t hide behind another rider to save you from those friction drags.

It’s best to fully-immerse chain in melted wax, but it can be a lot of work for a non-racing situation because wax doesn’t last as long as wet lubes. The best alternative is to fully immerse your chain during the first application, then use drip wax solution to top it up every couple hundred kilometers.

11. Ceramic Bearings

Ceramic bearings in your wheel hubs, bottom bracket, and pulleys can be super expensive and might not be worth it for most people because they won’t give you any significant advantages.

However, it’s still true that ceramic bearings have less friction than standard steel ones, which translates to smoother pedaling. As someone who uses ceramic bearings everywhere on my bike, this smoothness is very addictive. It’s like going from a regular car to a luxury sports car. You’ll just enjoy riding your bike more.

Plus, in my experience, they are more durable than steel bearings. Some reviewers have said the opposite, but I haven’t seen that. My ceramic bearings have lasted multiple seasons without any noticeable decrease in performance.

12. Professional Bike Fit

Finally, a professional bike fit can ensure that your bike is perfectly tailored to your body. This can enhance comfort, improve efficiency, and ultimately, make you faster on the road. This service is a must for any serious cyclist, especially if you have been experiencing any discomfort or pain while riding.

A professional bike fit will take into account your body measurements, flexibility, riding style, and goals to determine the optimal position for you on the bike. This can involve adjusting your saddle height, handlebar reach, cleat position, and other adjustments to maximize power transfer and minimize discomfort. These small tweaks can make a world of difference in terms of performance and overall enjoyment of your ride.

There were once times when pro cycling teams mocked the rule as being outdated because, with our current technology, bike manufacturers can easily make carbon fiber bikes that weigh far less than 6.8kg while still meeting the EN ISO 4210-6 safety requirements.

In fact, pro teams used to artificially add extra weight to their bikes to meet the 6.8kg weight limit rule.

However, new generations of Tour de France bikes are now significantly heavier than they used to be. The average bike in the pro peloton today weighs around 7.2kg. Why?

In this article, we’ll discuss why road bikes are getting heavier and why that’s not necessarily a bad thing.

What Is The Average Tour de France Bike Weight?

Based on videos of GCN and CyclingTips who regularly weigh Tour de France bikes every year, aero bikes weigh upwards of 7.5kg. But most importantly, bikes that the Tour de France pros use in mountainous stages weigh from 7.0 to 7.3kg. This is far above the UCI weight limit of 6.8kg.

Looking back to 2015 and earlier, lightweight bikes are so much lighter. Trek Emonda, for example, which first launched in 2014 and weighs 4.6kg was the lightest production bike at the time. Then there are the first and second versions of Cannondale SuperSix Evo Hi-Mod that weigh less than 6.8kg even without the highest-level components.

Of course, you can’t race them in UCI-sanctioned races, but these bikes were the norm. Even if you can’t race with them, everyone can buy these bikes.

Clearly, manufacturers know how to actually make lightweight bikes that are safe to use. At one time, they just decided not to.

Despite today’s weight inflation, though, apparently, Tour de France riders are getting faster than ever. So, what happened there? Why are lightweight bikes getting heavier and why are these new-gen heavy bikes faster than the old lightweight ones?

The Advantage of Aerodynamics

Because carbon fiber technology advanced so quickly and bikes were getting so light, the UCI did have a second look at their 6.8kg regulations a few years ago. Ultimately, they decided to keep the rule in place.

Because of that, pro teams artificially added extra weights to their bikes. This is often in the form of heavier components or leads taped to the frame or wheels. This brings the bike up to the minimum weight limit.

Later, companies realize that instead of adding dead weights, which gives pros no advantage during the race, they might as well add weights that do make them faster.

With the help of wind tunnel testing, bike companies have been able to design bikes that are more aerodynamic than ever before. Other than the thicker frame tubes, features such as integrated handlebars and stems, hidden cables, and deep-section wheels, all of this help reduce drag and make the bike faster.

Because of all these features, aero bikes are significantly heavier than lightweight bikes. And this is the first reason why we’re seeing the start of inflation in Tour de France bike weights.

The Rise of All-Arounder Bikes

But aero bikes aren’t new. For a while, pros have been switching between lightweight bikes for mountainous stages and aero bikes for flat/sprint stages.

They thought because aero bikes are heavier, they wouldn’t be able to climb as well as lightweight bikes. But as it turns out, that’s not always the case. As long as pros are able to ride above 30km/h, aero properties will always be more important than weight. Even on the longest and steepest mountain like the Alps the Huez, grand tour riders can still hold an average speed of 20km/h where some aerodynamic properties still matter.

So there’s a sweet spot between weight and aero, which gives birth to all-arounder bikes. They are essentially climbing bikes with some aero optimization, giving them a little bit of extra weight but can climb faster than pure climbing bikes on most hills because of the aero shapes.

The Specialized Tarmac is one example of an all-arounder bike. It’s not the lightest in the market, but with some aero features, it’s one of the fastest bikes you can buy.

Optimized for aero and equipped with deeper-section carbon wheels, most of these lightweight all-around bikes weigh from 6.8 to 7.5kg.

The Age of Disc Brakes

The final reason for the current state of Tour de France bikes is the rise of disc brakes. Disc brake bikes are heavier than their rim brake counterparts, but most top-level aero and all-arounder bikes come equipped with disc brakes now.

Not only the calipers and disc rotors themselves are heavier, but the fork, frame seat stay, chain stay, and wheels of a disc brake-compatible bike must also be reinforced and be made heavier than their rim brake counterparts to compensate for the higher stopping force.

All combined, a top-level disc brake road bike is said to weigh about 500g more than a rim brake bike of the same model.

But all these weights are not for nothing. Sure, rim brakes vs disc brakes preference is still a very controversial topic even today, but there are some clear advantages of disc brakes that make almost all pro teams ride exclusively disc brakes today.

With disc brakes, you can slow down from a high speed with better reliability, and as a result, pros are more confident in going on a higher-speed descent. Disc brakes also have better compatibility with tubeless tire setup, which has a lower rolling resistance compared to standard butyl or tubular setup.

The use of disc brakes also allows wider rims and tires, which can lower rolling resistance and add comfort. These will surely add weight, but looking at how pro peloton has been continuously increasing their tire width from 23mm to 28mm today, the swap must’ve been worth it.

Is Disc Brake the Biggest Contributor to Weight Inflation?

Aero and disc brakes are surely the main contributors to why Tour de France bikes are now heavier than 6.8kg. The disc brake has been blamed as the reason why bikes today are so much heavier than older rim brake bikes. But is that true?

To answer that, we need to look at road bike manufacturers who still give a choice to customers whether they want a rim brake or disc brake bike.

The best example of this is the Pinarello Dogma F since it’s one of the new-gen bikes that still have a rim brake option.

In a video on the YouTuber GC Performance’s channel, he weighed the Dogma F rim brake bike in size 53 with a Campagnolo Super Record EPS groupset and Princeton 4540 wheels with White Industries hubs. The total weight without pedals is 7.19kg.

In another of his video, he weighed the disc brake version of Pinarello Dogma F. Same paint job, same size, same groupset, but heavier wheels (Princeton 4550, slightly deeper than the 4550). The weight? Also 7.19kg.

What happened there? Why is the rim brake bike not lighter than the disc brake variation?

If we looked at CCache.cc’s road bike groupset weight comparison table, it turns out that there are only 107 grams of difference between Super Record EPS rim brake vs disc brake—without the brake fluid which can weigh from 50-100 grams per bike. So, in total, the difference between the disc brake and rim brake groupset is 200 grams or less.

This difference can easily be offset by the small weight variations that normally occur during the frame and components manufacturing process. So, maybe what we’re seeing is a disc brake frame and components that happened to be lighter than the rim brake. But, seeing that they have the exact same weight, the actual difference in weight between disc and rim brake bikes might not be that significant after all.

How Much Does “Aero” Add Weight?

So, now that we know disc brakes add more or less 200 grams to a bike, how much weight do aero profiles contribute to added weight?

The easiest way to find out is by measuring two bikes, one with aero profiles and one completely without. The two bikes must be of the same company and same generation so that we know they use the same carbon layup.

The two bikes that come to mind are the Specialized Tarmac SL7 and Aethos.

The Tarmac SL7 is the perfect example of an all-arounder bike. It eliminates the need for Specialized’s dedicated aero bike, Venge, from the market and pro peloton because the Tarmac SL7 is not far-worse in terms of aero, yet it is significantly lighter.

The Aethos, on the other hand, has absolutely zero aero optimization. The Aethos is made to be a lightweight frame, all the tubes are rounded without a single hint of aerofoil profile.

The Tarmac SL7 is no doubt the faster frame, but the Aethos is lighter. But by how much? If we compare frame weights, the Aethos is 570g and the Tarmac SL7 is 800g, both in size 56.

Right away, you can see that making a frame more aero adds 230g.

As a complete bike without pedals, the Tarmac SL7 is 6.9kg and Aethos is 6.2kg. The difference gets bigger because the Aethos is equipped with a lightweight integrated handlebar and stem, and a much shallower rim depth.

As you can see, aero profiles add 700 grams and disc brakes add up to 200 grams to the bike. There are also minor factors like wider rims and tires, threaded bottom brackets, and electronic groupsets. Combined, these are the reason why today’s road bikes can be more than 1 kilogram heavier than older ones.

How Much Does Weight Affect Speed Anyway?

Road cyclists are obsessed with weight, so you might be curious about Tour de France bike weight in the first place. But how much faster is a lighter bike?

Everything else being equal (they are usually not), a lighter bike is not measurably faster on a perfectly flat road. That’s because on a flat road, gravity doesn’t work for or against you and the bike weight only contributes to the small increase in rolling resistance. Considering the weight difference between the lightest and heaviest road bikes, which is not actually not that significant once we started adding the rider’s weight, this can’t practically be measured when you’re on a flat road.

Cycling uphill on steep gradients, though, you might be able to feel the difference.

On a 3% gradient, a 70kg rider with a 6kg bike will need to exert 193 watts of power to go at a speed of 20 km/h. If we increase the bike weight to 9kg, the rider will need 199 watts to go at the same speed.

A 6-watt of difference with 3kg of bike weight isn’t much for most people except people who compete at the highest level of competition like the Tour de France.

The power difference gets bigger the steeper the gradient is. For example, on a 7% gradient, the same rider with a 6kg bike will need to exert 368 watts of power to go at a speed of 20 km/h. If we increase the bike weight to 9kg, the rider will need 381 watts to go at the same speed.

So the difference is now 13 watts at a 7% gradient compared to 6 watts at 3%.

If you put a more comparable bike weight, for example, a 6.8kg UCI-limit bike vs a Tour de France bike’s average weight of 7.3kg. The difference going up a 7% gradient hill is only 2 watts at 20 km/h.

If you’re interested in experimenting with the numbers yourself, you can use this calculator.

Unfortunately, it’s impossible to check if the weight and aero tradeoff is worth it because you will need a wind tunnel to measure how much all the aero frame and components make you faster. The closest thing we can make a judgment on is by looking at Tour Mag’s aero test comparisons.

For example, Giant TCR Advanced 2019, a pure climbing bike with very minimal aero considerations, scored 227 watts at 45 km/h in a wind tunnel. On the other hand we have the Specialized Tarmac SL7, an all-arounder, scored 210 watts in the same setting. A 17-watt difference at 45 km/h, which is probably around 5-10 watts at 30 km/h.

So, realistically, the heavier aero/all-arounder bike can save you about 10 watts on a perfectly flat road but make you slower by 2 watts going on a very steep uphill. For people competing in the highest level of the sport, this tradeoff might be worth it.

In this blog post, we will walk you through the process of choosing the perfect bike size for your height and inseam. We’ll also provide some tips on how to adjust your seat and handlebars so that you can ride in comfort.

Let’s get started!

Why You Shouldn’t Use The Recommended Size from Bike Manufacturers

Size charts provided by bike manufacturers are not always the best way to decide the right bike size for you. They might be good for the “average” people, but almost no one is perfectly average.

Everyone’s body is different and what may work for one person may not work for another.

Let’s first look at the Specialized bike size chart:

According to this chart, a 5’7″-5’9″ or 170-175 cm person should ride a size 54 Tarmac. This is likely one size too big. In the real world, a size 54 Specialized Tarmac bike would be too big for a person with a height of 170 cm.

So what will happen if you buy a size 54 Tarmac anyway? You will get various problems like shoulder pain, neck pain, and saddle sores, among many other things. In short, you won’t enjoy it.

Let’s see another examples from Trek. If you use their Size Finder tool to find out your size, they will likely recommend you a bike that is one or two sizes too big. They are worse than Specialized in this case.

So why do such big brands like Specialized and Trek do this?

No idea. But one reason I keep hearing is that a bike one size too big is “safer” for beginners because it has a higher stack and is easier to control with a wider handlebar. This is true to an extent, but for people who ride their bikes for more than an hour per session, you should get the correct bike size.

Use Geometry Charts to Compare Bike Sizes Between Brands

Some bike brands use numbers like 48, 52, 54, 56, 58, and so on to indicate their size. Others use letters like XS, S, M, L, and XL.

These two different styles can’t be compared to each other. And, even if two brands use the same format, you should never compare two bikes from different brands using only their size charts.

For example, a Colnago V3Rs size 52s is way bigger than a Trek Emonda size 52 because they use different measurements to decide that number. And a size S Canyon Ultimate is actually more comparable to a size M of Giant TCR.

See how annoying that is?

Okay, so how can you tell which bike is the right size for you?

Use geometry charts.

Geometry charts are like the blueprint of a bike frame. They show all the key dimensions and tube angles of a particular model, including things like the head angle, seat tube angle, stack, and reach, among many others.

Geometry charts are the only reliable way to tell how two bikes of different brands and models compare in size.

So, disregard all predetermined sizing options from every brand, and just use the geometry chart when you’re looking for a new bike.

The Correct Step to Choose The Right Bike Size

This is how to find the correct bike size for you:

1. Measure Your Height and Inseam

You can’t find a bike size based on height alone or inseam alone, both should be used together.

“Height” is pretty straightforward and most people already know their own height. “Inseam” in cycling is basically your leg length measured from the crotch. If inseam or inside leg measurement is new to you, here’s the easy way to measure yours. All you need is a hardcover book, or something of similar thickness, a pencil, and a tape measure.

To find your inseam, simply hold the book between your legs with the spine facing up. Make sure the book is pushed against your crotch but don’t push too hard. While barefooted, measure from the floor to the top of the spine.

If you can’t find someone to help you measure, face a wall and hold the book against the wall. Make sure the book is straight and all the wall-facing side is in contact with the wall. Make a mark at the top part of your book on your wall using a pencil. Finally, measure the pencil mark from the floor.

Repeat this process three times (or more if needed) and average out the results to get the most accurate measurement.

Now that you know your inseam, calculate your inseam-to-height ratio by dividing your inseam by your height. If your number is below 0.45, then you have short legs than average people, and if your number is above 0.47, then you have long legs.

Keep these measurements for now as they will be useful later.

2. Find Your Starting Point Using This Bike Frame Geometry Chart

Below you will find not the predefined size chart that is commonly found in other guides or bike brand websites. Those are arbitrary numbers that have no standards in any way. Instead, this is a geometry recommendation.

As said earlier, all bike brands use different systems and inconsistent numbering between brands, using a bike size chart might mislead you. That’s why instead of telling you the predefined size (S, M, L, 52, 54, 56, etc.) we’ll use the three bike measurements that matter the most when choosing a bike size:

• Effective top tube length: The horizontal distance from the head tube to the seat tube. Some bikes use this measurement as their size in centimeters.
• Stack: The vertical distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the head tube.
• Reach: The horizontal distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the head tube.

The three measurements dictate how large a bike is – there are others measurements like head tube and seat tube angle, but these do not vary much between bikes. Unlike a size chart, a geometry chart is consistent between brands so once you know the right geometry for you, you can easily choose any bike from any brand.

Keep in mind that the following table is a general guideline only to find your starting point.

A few things to keep in mind based on the table above:

• This table is just a starting point of guidance. In reality, there is a chance that you might fit better with a frame one size smaller or bigger.
  • If you have short legs (lower than 0.45 inseam-to-height ratio) you might need to size down
  • If you have long legs (higher than 0.47 inseam-to-height ratio) you might need to size up or choose a different bike with a higher stack number
• The stack and reach value is most important for performance-oriented or aero road bikes. This type of bike usually has the longest and lowest front-end, making it hard to find the right fit. For endurance road bikes or gravel bikes, you can usually get away with only using the effective top tube length because these types of bikes are made to be more relaxed and upright.
• If you are in-between two sizes, always go with the lower size. Your body can tolerate a lower stack more than a longer reach. Also, you can use a longer stem (and maybe a longer seat post) on a smaller frame to increase the total size of your bike so that it fits you.
• Some bikes have sloping top tubes, some are more horizontal. On different bikes of a similar size, top tubes can have a big difference in length depending on the slope. So, when you compare different bike brands’ geometry charts, make sure to look for the effective or horizontal top tube length. If they use a different term, look at the frame geometry diagram which is usually included on the chart.

Here’s an example of how to find your bike size using the geometry chart:

If you are 183 cm or 6 feet tall, the chart above says you need a bike with a 545–565 mm effective top tube length, >547 mm stack, and <400mm reach. Now look at the Specialized Tarmac geometry chart below:

Based on our recommendation above, a 56 Tarmac might be your size. However, since the reach is too close to the limit, you might want to try a different bike with a shorter reach and higher stack instead if you have proportionally long legs – based on your inseam-to-height ratio.

3. Go to Some Bike Brands’ Websites and Compare the Geometry Charts

Now, hopefully, you have several options you have in mind and are not fixated on one bike brand only because they might not have the right fit for you.

For example, some bikes like the Specialized Tarmac are known for being very low and long on the front end. It is a great-looking bike, but not too beginner-friendly.

If your legs are proportionally longer than the average person’s (inseam-to-height ratio > 0.47), that means your reach is proportionally shorter. So, it might be worth looking for a different bike brand that has a shorter reach and higher stack. Or choose an endurance-oriented road bike instead.

Even if you plan to buy at a local bike shop, always check the geometry charts on your own first.

Local bike shop doesn’t usually have a professional bike fitter, and it’s not uncommon that they recommend you a bike that’s one or two sizes too big because they don’t know any better or they don’t have the right size in stock and still want to close a sale.

It’s a good idea to try the bike first if you have the chance. But a bike that’s only one size too big won’t probably be noticeable on a five-minute ride (even though it can make you miserable on a one-hour ride or more) especially if it’s your first bike.

Tip #1: Get a bike fit first

If you have a body functionality problem, are less flexible, or are very unfit, you should think about getting a professional bike fit first before buying an expensive bike. The less “average” you are compared to other people, the more problems you will have on the bike over a long period of riding.

Don’t worry, it is normal to get a bike fit even if you don’t yet have a bike. In fact, some bike fitters recommend doing so because buying the wrong bike size is a costly mistake.

Tip #2: What if you already have a bike and it feels too big or too small

Fortunately, apart from the bike frame itself, the rest of your bicycle is adjustable (to a point). It might cost you money to buy the new part, but you might not need a new bicycle frame.

So, first, assess how you feel on the bike.

Is the seat post too high or not high enough? This is the easiest one to fix because most bikes have a decent amount of seat post adjustment. You can also usually purchase a shorter or longer seat post if your current one doesn’t fit you.

Do you feel too low on the front end and it’s causing neck pain? Then you need to raise your handlebar. If you still have spacers on top of your stem, then raise the stem by moving the spacer below the stem. If not, then flip your stem upside down.

What if your bike feels too long for you? You can try using a shorter stem. The minimum recommended length for a road bike is 80 mm and most road bikes come with a 90 or 100 mm stem, so you have 1-2 cm room for adjustment.

Alternatively, get a new handlebar with a shorter reach. Depending on your current handlebar, you might be able to find another model with a 5-10 mm shorter reach. They are more expensive than a stem, though.

As a last resort, you can also tilt the handlebar backward so that the shifter hoods are closer to you.

What you should NOT do if you feel your bike feels too long is to push the saddle forward too much. Sure, by pushing the saddle forward you sit closer to the handlebar – effectively shortening the reach. However, doing that will cause arm, neck, and shoulder pain because you’re shifting your weight forward.

Finally, if the standover is too high, meaning you need to lean your bike sideways when you put both of your feet down because the top tube is hitting your crotch, then the frame is just simply too big for you and you need a new frame.

Sunlight is excellent, but only in small doses. Too much sun and you’ll get badly burnt and suffer from heat stroke, and you’re at increased risk of getting skin cancer. When cycling, you’re exposed to a lot of sunlight and may not notice it until it’s too late. You may ask, “How can I protect myself from the sun while cycling?” And the answer is simple, choose a time, dress the part, and apply SPF.

Why You Always Need Sun Protection When Cycling

Deceived by a cold wind or a cloudy sky, most people don’t think of protecting themselves from the sun during the winter or when it’s cloudy outside. Despite the weather, exposure to sunlight will still cause harm without proper protection.

In fact, some studies have found that UVB radiation can be more intense when there is a combination of hazy or cloudy conditions and snow or sand on the ground as these surfaces reflect more UVB back into the atmosphere.

The reddening and subsequent browning of your skin after extended sun exposure is the skin cells’ defense strategy. It loads itself full of melanin to prevent further damage from occurring, which means your skin is already facing a lot of damage by the point you can see reddening. 

A tan might be fun, but too much sun exposure leads to premature skin aging and may cause cancer.

Don’t Cycle In The Heat Of The Day 

The first step in combatting severe sun exposure, and all it comes with, is choosing the right time of day to cycle. Cycling outside the 11 am to 3 pm bracket is best for avoiding sun damage as there is less UV exposure, and it will also not be as hot. 

This time bracket is easy for some to match, but if your schedule makes it so cycling at midday is easiest for you, stick to shaded areas as much as possible. Unfortunately, staying out of the sun isn’t always manageable, but there are other precautions to be safe from the sun’s radiation while cycling.

Dressing For Sun Protection While Cycling

While changing the time of a ride may not be within your power, especially if you’re cycling in an event or a race, you can take steps to ensure preparation for all that lies ahead by wearing appropriate clothing and having sun protection in place.

The clothes you wear on your ride will be the first line of defense against ultraviolet light. I like to focus on keeping my back and neck covered, as these areas are most exposed to the sun when I bend over my bicycle. 

There are several ways to dress and accessorize for sun protection when cycling. 

1. Wear a cap or hat. 
2. UV sunglasses help to protect your eyes. 
3. Invest in UPF clothing.

Wear A Cycling Cap

Cycling caps were rather popular in the mid-1900s and lost favor when wearing helmets became mandatory in the early 2000s. At the height of their popularity, they served as a means to show off sponsors and offer sun protection.

Bicycle helmets are essential for safety and ensure that your head is safe and sound should you fall off your bike or get into an accident. However, bicycle helmets have holes to ensure your head stays cool while the sun attempts to bake you from above, which does away with one of the cap’s more valuable functions. 

The downside to the helmet is that the sun now has a direct line of access to your head. If you’re fortunate enough to have a full head of hair, these holes pose little threat, but burning your scalp is still no happy occasion. 

Bicycle helmets also don’t offer much face protection. Wearing a cycling cap under a helmet helps keep sweat from trickling into your eyes, the sun from scorching your head and face, and even offers extra warmth in the colder months. The small peak of the cap is great for fending off the sun’s glare.

Cycling caps are a thin, light layer that fits nicely under helmets. Some caps even have additional material on the back to protect your neck. The best materials to consider for breathability are synthetics, although you might consider a wool cap for winter.

UV Sunglasses

Cycling in full sun or total downpour, cycling sunglasses are essential for eye protection. The glasses keep away insects, dust, and keep your eyes from watering from the wind. Most importantly, they block 100% of UV and will protect your eyes from sun damage.

When looking for a good pair of sunglasses for cycling, make sure they’re comfortable, strong, work well for your eyes, and are fashionable.

My tip is to always bring your helmet when choosing sunglasses because some don’t work well and look good together.

While there is nothing wrong with wearing regular sunglasses for a casual bike ride, investing in some quality cycling glasses can only be beneficial. Cycling sunglasses are normally bigger than regular sunglasses because cyclists need more protective surface area while going at a high speed. Some cycling sunglasses also have minimal frames to not hinder your vision.

UPF Clothing

Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) describes how much UV light gets let through a given object. Clothes with higher UPF ratings, like UPF 50, will provide a better barrier between harmful radiation and your skin than a UPF 30.

The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends any clothing with a rating above UPF 30. Always look for the UPF rating whenever you are shopping for cycling jerseys.

What to consider when buying UPF clothing for cycling:

• Dark colors absorb UV light and stop it from reaching your skin better than light colors.
• Cycling jerseys with breathable mesh are nice but usually have a lower UPF rating. Make sure the back part of the jersey is not made of big mesh fabric.
• Glossy polyesters contain natural UV reflective and absorbing capabilities. 
• Too tight clothing can stretch the weave of a garment and leave gaps for UV to penetrate it. So, consider wearing a cycling base layer if you prefer tight clothing for aero.
• More coverage is better coverage.
• Wet fabrics may become transparent and lose their UV protection. For ultra-distance cycling, it’s a good idea to bring spare clothing.

Wear Sun Protection Clothing

Many sports stores specifically manufacture clothing for sun protection. UPF sportswear like arm sleeves, leg sleeves, and buffs are easily bought online or in active wear sections at the store.

Wearing sleeves and buffs during the summer may look hot, but they are actually more comfortable because your skin is protected from the scorching sun.

Polyester and nylon materials will give better sun protection than cotton, and they are also better at sweat-wicking.

In the summer, fingerless gloves will protect your hands from the sun. Fingers don’t usually get sunburnt, so full gloves are unnecessary.

Choosing A Sunscreen For Cycling

Some say sunscreens are only for weak people, but the fact is everyone is weak against the sun.

Sunscreen is essential for body parts unprotected by clothing and exposed to the sun, it is your last line of defense when cycling. For example, if you don’t wear leg sleeves, then you have to use sunscreen on your legs. It is also recommended to wear sunscreen if you wear a lightweight “climbing” jersey since they don’t give enough sun protection.

Using a higher SPF or PA with more pluses (PA+++) sunscreen is always better, especially when cycling for hours in the sun. Plus, you have to reapply sunscreen every two hours you are under the sunlight.

Notes to ponder when choosing a good SPF for cycling:

• Some sunscreens only protect you against UVA and not UVB. UVB doesn’t penetrate your skin as deep as UVA, but can still cause sunburn and skin cancer.
• Note that even high SPF creams do not make you completely sunproof. You should reapply your sunscreen at least every two hours for maximum protection. 
• Cycling is sweaty work. Between the sun and the moisture, all your protection can drip away. Buy a sweat-resistant sunscreen made specifically for working out. 
• Mineral sunscreens are safer but thicker and might stain your cycling gear, but chemical sunscreens have smoother applications and contain trace amounts of harmful chemicals.
• Spray sunscreens are easier to apply but the layer of protection won’t be as thick as cream sunscreens.
• Because reapplication is so essential, carry a small tube of sunscreen with you on your bike ride longer than 2 hours. Make sure it is enough to retouch any exposed skin.
• Before reapplying sunscreen during a ride, wipe away as much excess moisture and grit from the skin as possible to allow the new coating of SPF to be evenly and effectively applied.
• Always apply your sunscreen up to 15 minutes before starting your ride to give your skin a chance to absorb them.
• Don’t apply sunscreen on your forehead. Sweat mixed with sunscreen might irritate your eyes and makes it impossible to see the road for a while. Your forehead should get enough protection from the helmet or cycling cap.

Preventing Heatstroke and Heat Exhaustion When Cycling

Your sun protection layers and sunscreens can’t fully protect you from heatstroke because it’s more about temperature than UV. When exposed to hot temperatures for too long, the body’s normal processes can become impaired, leading to an increased risk of heat exhaustion and heatstroke.

To prevent heat-related stress when cycling, it is important to always stay hydrated and lower your cycling intensity.

If you’re not in a cycling event or a race, you should take frequent breaks in shady areas and avoid exerting yourself too much in the direct sunlight. But if you are going to race in the heat of the summer, then you should do some heat acclimation training for at least 10 days prior to the race.

If you have excess water in your bidon, you can pour them onto your head and neck to help your body cool down.

Some articles out there recommend wearing bright-colored clothing to reflect sunlight and makes your body temperature lower. While this is true for solid surfaces like your water bottle (water in white bidons does in fact stay cooler under the sun than in black bidons), it is not the same with thin mesh fabric surfaces of your clothing. Bright-colored clothing actually has a lower UPF rating and will pass through more sunlight to your skin than dark-colored clothing.

Luckily, there are several options when it comes to lubing alternative sources that won’t keep us waiting too long and get our bikes going again in no time.

Today I’m going to share with you several excellent bike chain lube alternatives that will have your gears running smoothly. These might not be the best substitutes for high-quality bike chain lube, but the point is that they will work in an emergency and are easy to find anywhere.

Always Pack a Small Bottle of Lube for a Long Ride

Prevention is better than cure, and I, therefore, urge you to always pack a 5- or 10-ml eye dropper bottle filled with bicycle chain lube before undertaking a long bicycle ride. Five milliliters of wet lube should be more than enough to keep your bicycle chain going smoothly for one ride.

The best lube for a bicycle is bicycle chain lube. However, if you run out of it on a ride and do not bring any spare, I have compiled a list of 12 alternative ways to lube a bike chain in an emergency. These alternatives should be easily accessible along your journey, in a pantry at home, or at a store.

Emergency Bike Chain Lube Alternatives

A word of warning, these are bike chain lube alternatives and not replacements. While they will get your bike going again in an emergency, don’t expect them to provide a smooth shift on the same level as professional bicycle chain lubricants. Also, clean up your drivetrain when you get home if you use any of these lube alternatives.

Emergency lube alternatives should be easy to find so even when you’re stranded in a remote area, you will likely find one of these options:

1. Cooking Oil or Cooking Spray. Cooking oil or any vegetable oil is the best emergency bike lube alternative because they are easy to find in homes, shops, and restaurants. They have the right consistency for bike chains and should work well as temporary lubrication. Cooking spray is thinner so you will need to apply more and reapply them much more frequently. Be careful not to spray your disc brake rotor.
2. WD-40. Because of its versatility, most households, shops, and mechanics may have a can of WD-40. WD-40 is more of a cleaner and not a great lubricant but it does have some lubricating properties.
3. Three-in-one oil. Some independent bike lube testers have proven that three-in-one oil outperforms some lubricants in terms of speed, power loss, and longevity. So it definitely works in emergencies.
4. Hair Clipper Oil. If you ride past a barbershop, you could ask for some hair clipper oil to use. This is another very light oil that needs frequent reapplication. Still, you might be able to ride at least 50 km in one application depending on how much clipper oil you’re shamelessly using in front of the barber.
5. Vaseline or Petroleum Jelly. Petroleum jelly can work as a lubricant but attracts dirt and grime and makes it difficult to clean the bicycle afterward. Because of the thickness, petroleum jelly might slow you down, if you still care about speed.
6. Chainsaw Oil. Chainsaw oil is a fully synthetic oil that lasts long and will protect against corrosion. Don’t apply too much or it will attract and trap dirt which will wear your chain fast.
7. Motor Oil or Engine Oil. Using motor oil as a temporary solution to a bicycle chain lube emergency is perfectly fine. However, they are thick and acidic and will damage bicycle parts that are more delicate than motor vehicles.
8. Butter or Margarine. Both these products are available all over and are helpful for the oils and fat they contain. Unmelted, they won’t reach the inside of chain rollers, but they can still be helpful in an emergency. Be sure to clean your drivetrain when you get home immediately.
9. Liquid Dishwashing Soap. This can work to quiet the squeaking sound on your bicycle chain, but don’t use them in wet condition or they might instead remove the lube that was already there and make the sound worse.
10. Chapstick or Lip Balm. They contain petroleum products, the same as petroleum jelly, making them decent alternatives in emergencies. You may have to sacrifice the whole pot or stick, but at least the squeaking will subside.
11. Bug Spray. Some bug sprays contain oil or petroleum distillates which can help the chain to move more freely, but they evaporate quickly so you won’t get much lube and will need to reapply often. They are not the best option, but at least your chain will be bug-free.
12. Candle or Paraffin Wax. For cyclists who use chain wax and not traditional lube, this is the best emergency option if you don’t want to dirty your chain and restart the whole cleaning and waxing process at home. Melting candles or paraffin wax takes more time, so it won’t work if you’re in a race.

Do Not Use Emergency Chain Lube Alternatives On The Long Run

Chain lube alternatives are only to be used in emergency situations. Remember that these alternatives do not work as well as lubes specifically designed for bicycle chains. If you can find a bike shop nearby, it’s always better to get bike chain lube.

Using alternative lubes will lead to the chain’s and sprocket’s early deterioration. Some of these alternatives attract and trap more dirt in the chain roller creating friction that wears away your chain. Some of them might even damage your drivetrain if left for too long. This means unnecessary costly replacements more often.

In addition, these alternative lubes might influence your shifting performance, making it less smooth and crisp. Thicker oils might also make you slower by reducing your drivetrain efficiency.

The only question is, what device should you use? You can always use an app on your smartphone, but there’s also a range of specialized bike computers that are available on the market. Read below for our take on the advantages and disadvantages of each, as well as our product recommendations for whichever you decide on.

Advantages of Using a Smartphone as a Bike Computer

The main advantage of using your smartphone is clear; since you already own one, there’s no need to go out and purchase an extra device. This automatically saves you on money and time, not to mention the fact that you’re already familiar with your smartphone and probably know your way around it pretty well.

Your smartphone, whether it’s an iPhone or Android, likely already has a GPS function that’s on par with high-end bike computers, meaning that your location tracking will be fairly fast and accurate. Smartphones also have quality displays which are much larger than the average bike computer’s, allowing you to view your route and other stats while riding easily.

In addition, popular apps like Apple Maps and Google Maps are top-tier of navigational software, with features and layouts designed to make finding your way as easy as possible.

Disadvantages of Using a Smartphone as a Bike Computer

Despite your smartphone’s stellar GPS performance, it might have some disadvantages when used for cycling as well. 

One possible disadvantage is that your smartphone, even while acting as a bike computer, doesn’t stop being a smartphone. This means that if you need to answer a call or a message, you’ll have to navigate away from your route, potentially interrupting your ride. Also, if you get any notifications, they can easily turn into an annoying or even dangerous distraction.

Another thing to consider is the fact that using your GPS results in a significant drain on your smartphone’s battery, so if you go for long rides, your risk running out of power. This could be remedied with the help of a portable charger, but this is another device that you’d have to worry about storing on your bike.

Another major element to take into consideration is the fact that smartphones aren’t designed to work in conditions such as those you encounter while cycling. Not all smartphones are water resistant, and the touchscreen often doesn’t work if your hands are moist, which is bad news for cycling in the rain or if you work out so hard your hands got sweaty.

Smartphones are also more likely to break if you happen to get into a crash, especially if you mount your phone on your handlebars. A dedicated bike computer, on the other hand, is more robust and will probably survive a crash, replacing it is much cheaper than buying another smartphone.

Third Option: a Smartwatch

If you already have a smartwatch from Apple, Garmin, or something else, they can usually track your rides pretty well too. Smartwatches have the best of both worlds in terms of battery life and durability. However, with a smartwatch, you don’t have any form of navigation and you will need to rise your wrist every time you want to look at the ride data.

How to Track Your Ride With a Smartphone

If you do decide that using your smartphone while cycling is worth a try, you’ll still need some bike-specific accessories. 

Here are our top picks for cycling apps to track your workout with. You need only to install one of them but give all three a try.

• Strava: One of the riding apps that top most cyclists’ lists, Strava is a social network and ride tracker rolled into one. You can upload data to the app such as heart rate, route distance, and speed. Ideal if you want to connect with other cyclists, Strava makes socializing while biking easy; you can post pictures, share routes, follow friends, and participate in group challenges. Strava works for both iPhone and Android devices, as well as some bike computers.
• Wahoo: Wahoo is another option for tracking your rides, but doesn’t offer social features. Instead, it’s compatible with cadence sensors and heart rate monitors, unlike Strava’s own app. You can upload your rides to Strava from the Wahoo app, so you’re not missing out on the social aspect.
• Cyclemeter: Similar to Wahoo, Cyclemeter allows you to track stats and record and navigate your rides. It’s compatible with many types of sensors, but Cyclemeter is iPhone only.

You’ll also need a way to mount your phone on the handlebars. Here are some of our recommendations for the best bike mounts out there:

QuadLock

QuadLock mount is designed for maximum security and durability. With a patented dual-stage lock, you get the best of both worlds with a strong mounting connection as well as easy twist-and-lock attachment and removal.

The mount position is designed to be low-profile, can hold your phone vertically or horizontally, and comes in a variety of attachment options. QuadLock also comes with an impact-absorbing, closed-port phone case that’s slim enough to leave on for everyday use.

The full set including the case is not cheap, but it does feel really secure and stable. In our opinion, QuadLockis the best bike mount for smartphones.

Peak Design

Peak Design Out Front Bike Mount and case featuring a similar mount that’s slightly less heavy-duty, Peak Design offers a variable mounting system that stays secure with magnets and even allows you to flip your phone up and film your ride. The matching case is durable and aesthetic but doesn’t feature full-screen coverage and camera protection the way QuadLock’s does.

Spigen Gearlock

Spigen Gearlock is another smartphone mount option with a lower cost, but it doesn’t come with a case. You will need to buy a separate protective case with a flat back and stick the mount on the back of the case. It’s a great option for occasional, low-intensity rides, but may not perform the best under long-term wear and tear. 

Topeak Ridecase

Topeak Ridecase is a one-loop mount that can attach to various spots on your bike and features full-angle adjustment. The accompanying case is scratch-resistant, with rubber bumpers for shock absorption and an integrated flip stand to make viewing off your bike simple as well.

Viccux

Viccux Phone Mount is one of your more basic, but still solid, mounting options. It doesn’t require a matching case but instead features an adjustable, four-corner gripping system that fits around your phone. It can adapt to many different sizes and keeps a secure lock on your phone while still allowing it to rotate. 

Our recommendation is to start with something basic and cheap like the Viccux and upgrade to QuadLock or another more expensive option later if you’ve decided that a smartphone is good enough as a bike computer.

Alternatively, if you don’t particularly care about looking at your ride data while riding and don’t require visible navigation directions, you won’t even need a mount. In that case, your smartphone would have a clear advantage, as you could simply slip it into your jersey’s back pocket and head off.

Why Consider a Bike Computer?

Does the idea of using your smartphone still not seem like the best option for you? Or perhaps you’ve tried using your smartphone to help you when cycling, but were dissatisfied with the results.

If so, it may be time to try out a cycling computer. 

There are a few major advantages to using a bike computer, depending on your priorities when cycling.

For one thing, you may find that your smartphone and cycling apps are less accurate than you’d like them to be in tracking your rides. Since bike computers are specifically designed with cycling in mind, they often have devices that are made for maximum compatibility and precision. 

If you place a high priority on tracking your cycling routes and other stats with accuracy, a bike computer will likely win you over.

In addition, if you often ride for long stretches, i.e., more than two hours at a time, a bike computer is definitely worth trying out. Maintaining battery life while navigating is where bike computers have a clear edge over smartphones, with the battery life of different models ranging from around 8 hours to an impressive 45 hours between charges.

Using a bike computer also ensures that you can bring your phone along as well and keep it fully charged in the case of an emergency; this is always a good backup to have in the case of long rides that take you far away from home.

If you often ride in tough conditions such as those involving a lot of rain or dust, you may also want to look into bike computers designed to suit your climate. Some bike computers are more water resistant than others, but most will hold up perfectly well under a steady downpour. There are also bike computers designed to work specifically for altitude cycling, high heat, and city biking.

Ultimately, bike computers are probably a good option if you’re quite a committed cyclist, and don’t mind investing in extra equipment that’s especially for your bike – especially if it’s for the sake of getting the best out of your ride.

The Best Bike Computers for the Money

If you are interested in trying out a bike computer, you may want to start with one of our experience-backed recommendations. 

In this section, we have listed the cheapest bike computers that are totally worth the money. Ranging from the basic and down-to-earth Velo Wireless to the fully-loaded Edge 530, you’ll definitely find one that fits your must-haves and your price point.

• Cateye Velo Wireless: If you prefer a more private ride and don’t want to upload your data to an app like Strava, the Cateye Velo will store it for you. Tracking stats such as current and average speeds, total distance, trip distance, times, and calorie consumption, the Velo packs a lot of a punch with a simple and easy-to-use design. The Velo Wireless can be found online for $44.95.
• Bryton Rider 420: The Bryton Rider is a perfect no-fuss navigation computer. With turn-by-turn directions, 35 hours of battery life, and day-to-night viewing capabilities, it’s ideal for the rider who wants maximum functionality but doesn’t need a host of unique features. It comes in at the reasonable price of $159.95, and also has the option of a compatible Bryton sensor package, which includes cadence and heart rate devices for only $70 more.
• Wahoo Elemnt Bolt: Sleek and intuitive, the Elemnt Bolt has an LED display that adjusts to ambient light, customizable screens so you can easily access the features you use most, and 16GB of memory to store your maps and route data. With full GPS capabilities and a long list of compatible apps and devices, the Bolt definitely has you covered. The price for this computer is $299.99 on Wahoo’s website.
• Garmin Edge 530: The Edge 530 is one of the most comprehensive bike computers out there, offering GPS navigation, progress tracking and ride analysis, detailed performance metrics, and a variety of modes suited for everything from city to mountain biking. It also comes loaded with safety features such as a bike alarm and emergency incident detection. You can also sync the device with your smartphone using the Garmin app. The price for the unit alone is $299.99, and you can add a sensor bundle for another $100, or special mountain bike equipment for another $169.

Our top recommendation is the Wahoo Elemnt Bolt. Wahoo’s software is simpler but more intuitive than the competition. Garmin offers more features, and the ecosystem is nice, but the software can be too convoluted for beginners.

Avoid bundled sensors. It might seem cheaper than buying the sensors separately, but you might not even need them in the first place. The most important sensor is a heart rate monitor, but you can buy it from a cheaper brand rather than using Garmin’s or Wahoo’s bundled sensors. It also breaks quite easily, making it pointless to purchase an expensive HRM.

The speed sensor is not needed since your bike computer has a GPS that can track speed too with good-enough accuracy. Lastly, the cadence sensor might be useful for beginners, but people will find their preferred cadence naturally on their own.

For the sake of comparison, when we talk about road bikes in this article, we’re referring to performance-oriented road bikes and not endurance bikes. Also when we talk about gravel bikes, we’re referring to adventure off-road bikes and not cyclocross bikes.

In a Nutshell: Road Bike vs Gravel Bike

Road bikes are designed for riding on paved surfaces. They are lightweight and feel agile thanks to their geometry and slim tires. Gravel bikes are designed for riding on unpaved surfaces. The geometry leans towards stability and upright body position, and the wide tires can absorb rough road vibrations better.

Most road bikes today can be used for gravel too, thanks to disc brakes and a wider maximum tire width. All you need to bring a road bike off-road are wider tires, probably tubeless. The geometry won’t be ideal, but it’s not a deal-breaker for most people. On the other hand, you can make a gravel bike faster on paved roads with slick and slim road tires.

Road bikes have some clear advantages over gravel bikes:

• Road bike frames are more aero and high-end road bikes come with deep-section rims that are more aero
• Road bikes are comparably faster on paved roads thanks to their lower weight and better aero, this is important if you are racing

And gravel bikes also have some advantages over road bikes:

• Gravel bike frames have wider tire clearances and can handle rougher roads more comfortably
• Gravel bike frames have more mounting points which are important for bags and mudguards
• Some gravel bikes have bigger maximum weight limit than road bikes

Next, let’s see in more detail what are the difference between typical road bikes and gravel bikes.

Frame Geometry

At a first glance, road bikes and gravel bikes might not look that different. After all, they both have diamond-shaped frames and usually come with a drop bar and 700c wheels. However, upon closer inspection, there are some key differences in frame geometry.

Road bike frames have a steeper headtube angle and a lower stack. This results in a more aggressive riding position which is ideal for going at speed. Road bikes also have a shorter wheelbase, making them more agile.

Gravel bike frames have a slacker headtube angle and a higher stack. This puts the rider in a more upright position, which is better for long-distance riding and comfort. Because of the higher stack, gravel bikes tend to have a sloping top tube.

Gravel bike frames also have a longer wheelbase, which makes them more stable. This also allows them to have bigger tires and avoid toe overlap with the front wheel which is important for handling on rough and technical roads.

Road bikes’ bottom bracket is lower than gravel bikes. This lowers the riders’ center of gravity and gives them better confidence during fast cornering and descending. Gravel bikes’ higher bottom bracket will give the pedal more ground clearance which is important when riding on uneven ground to avoid pedal strikes.

Tire Choice and Tire Clearance

For most people, this is the main deciding factor between a road bike and a gravel bike.

Road bikes today come in stock with tires that are 25-28mm wide. In the past, road bikes used to have much narrower tires (23mm), but the trend in recent years has been to go wider for comfort. And so, most newer generation road bikes can fit up to 34mm wide tires (even if they don’t officially say so), which are usually good enough for unpaved and smooth dirt road riding.

Gravel bikes come with even wider tires, they come in stock with 40mm tires and can sometimes go up to 50mm. They have higher rolling resistance but they offer much more comfort and grip.

If you ride mostly off-road, you will definitely need a gravel bike instead of a road bike. On the other hand, if you do most of your riding on paved roads and want to occasionally venture onto unpaved roads, dirt, and loose gravel, you can get away with a road bike.

If you’re not sure what kind of riding you will mostly be doing, it’s probably best to lean more on the side of getting a road bike. This is because road bikes today are getting more versatile and can be used in a broader variety of terrain. Also, beginners are more likely to ride on paved roads or dirt than a highly technical off-road terrain.

Road vs Gravel Groupset

A groupset is a collection of parts that make up the drivetrain of a bike. It includes shifters, derailleurs, a crankset, a chain, and a cassette.

Road bikes usually come with 2x drivetrains while gravel bikes come with 1x or 2x drivetrains. A 2x drivetrain has two chainrings in the front and offers a tighter range of cassette gears. This is ideal for road riding because it allows you to spin at a preferred cadence on a fast flat road and still have low gears for climbing hills.

A 1x drivetrain only has one chainring in the front and fewer gears overall. It is simpler because it removes the need for a front derailleur, but you will have fewer gears to work with. This doesn’t matter as much as a road bike because on a gravel bike you’re going to be riding at slower speeds.

Some gravel bikes come with 2x drivetrains for riders who want the option to ride on both paved and unpaved roads.

Thankfully, road and gravel groupset components from the same brand are fully compatible. So, if you have a road bike with a road groupset and you want to turn it into a gravel bike, you can easily do so by swapping out the rear derailleur and cassette with ones that are more suited for gravel. Gravel rear derailleurs usually have a clutch mechanism to prevent chain slap.

If you’re not sure which groupset to get, Shimano 105 and Ultegra are two of the most versatile groupsets. They are road groupset but the 105 in particular is compatible with up to 36t cassette, which is big enough for any gravel riding. The maximum of 34t on Ultegra is also good enough most of the time. Shimano road groupset is perfectly capable when used off-road.

Shimano’s gravel-specific groupset, the GRX, is good if you need more reliability on the roughest road condition. The most noticeable difference, really, is in the hood design and cassette capacity.

Suspension

Both road and gravel bikes don’t come with full suspension. But, some gravel bikes have suspension forks or some kind of vibration dampeners. For example, the IsoSpeed decoupler in Trek Checkpoint and Future Shock in Specialized Diverge.

A suspension fork will make your ride more comfortable on rough roads but it comes with a few drawbacks. First, it is heavier and will make your bike less efficient on paved roads. Second, it can be harder to control on descents because the front end of the bike is more prone to wobbling.

Generally, for riding on dirt roads or loose gravel, you don’t need any vibration dampeners because increasing the width of your tires will have the same effect.

Frame Strength and Materials

Road and gravel bike frames are available in aluminum, steel, titanium, and carbon fiber materials. The cheapest material is usually aluminum. Steel and titanium frames are good for longevity. But, for the performance-to-weight ratio, none can beat carbon fiber yet.

Gravel bike frames are tougher than road bike frames, but it doesn’t mean that road bike frames can’t be ridden off-road. They are both subject to the same ISO 4210-6 strength requirements under the same “racing bike” category. So, both road and gravel bike frames have the same capabilities, but gravel frames are stronger because they have thicker walls to dampen vibrations and a higher maximum weight capacity.

Handlebar Design

Gravel bikes have flared dropbars, which means the drop section of the handlebar is angled outward, making it wider than the hood. The flare supposedly gives you more control when riding on technical roads. In reality, most people don’t think flared dropbars have a significant advantage over unflared road dropbars in terms of control.

One clear advantage of flared dropbars is that it gives you more room to mount a wider handlebar bag.

Some road bikes have flat tops handlebars that are designed to be more aero than standard rounded tops. This can save up to 7 watts at a high speed. Gravel bikes don’t need flat tops because you don’t ride fast enough on gravel where the aero shape will give an advantage.

Gravel vs Road Bike Rims

700C is the most popular rim size for both gravel and road bikes. Though, some gravel bikes use the smaller 650B so they can fit bigger tires. Road bikes almost exclusively use 700C.

Gravel-specific rims are wider than road bike rims. The extra width allows better compatibility with wider tires, but on the downside, they can’t be used with slim road tires.

Just like the frame, road bike rims are usually strong enough for dirt and loose gravel road. Though, make sure you don’t fit wide tires on narrow rims.

As a general rule of thumb, double the internal width of your rim to get its approximate maximum tire width. For example, a 19mm rim can be fitted up to a 38mm tire, and a 21mm rim can be fitted up to a 42mm tire. (This is not always the same for all brands.)

Unlike road bikes, gravel bikes don’t usually use deep profile rims because you don’t ride fast enough on gravel to take advantage of the aero. A gravel bike’s rim depth is usually no more than 45mm, whereas road bikes can go up to 80mm.

If you plan on having only one bike for all roads, it’s much more convenient to have two sets of wheels: one for road and one for gravel. It’s easier to swap bike wheels than to remove the tires and install different ones every time, especially if you run tubeless.

If you really can’t afford a second wheelset, the best compromise is to get 21-23mm wheels and fit 30-34mm tubeless tires, depending on which side you lean more into. This setup is fast enough on paved roads and comfortable enough for gravel riding.

Mounting Points

This is another one of the clear advantages a gravel bike has over a road bike. At its heart, gravel bikes are built for adventures so they have more mounting points to allow you to attach all sorts of bike accessories, such as fenders, bags, and multiple water bottle cages. Some gravel bikes also have a built-in tool compartment on the downtube. Most road bikes only have two mounting points for bidons.

Gravel bike frames also have a higher maximum load that allows you to bring more gear with you on your adventures. Road bikes usually have a 130kg maximum weight limit including the rider because they are not meant to be loaded with gear.

That said, most bike bags don’t require mounting points and can be easily attached with velcro straps. So, you can still go on reasonable bikepacking trips even on a road bike.

Building a True All-Road Bike

As you can see, the line between gravel bikes and road bikes is blurry. And we purposely avoid endurance bikes and cyclocross bikes which makes the line even more blurry. Any of these four bikes can do almost everything, but none of them is the best at everything.

If you want to have only one bike for all types of terrain, you will still need to lean toward one or the other. Here’s what we recommend:

First, you might want to choose a road bike frame with a generous tire clearance (35mm+) and a relaxed geometry. Some examples are Trek Domane, Cervelo Caledonia, Enve Melee, and Allied Echo. If you lean towards gravel, it’s better to choose a simple gravel bike frame that is not bulky and doesn’t have off-road-specific features like fork suspension or dropper seat post. Some examples are Factor Ostro Gravel, Wilier Rave SLR, or Scott Addict Gravel.

Second, use a 2x drivetrain groupset with a big cassette. A 1x won’t be enough for riding on the tarmac and most of the time you won’t find the right gear for your preferred speed and cadence.

Third, get two sets of wheels—one for road riding with slim tires (25-30mm), and the other for gravel (34mm+). If you can only have one wheelset, choose a rim with 45mm depth or shallower, 21-23mm internal width, and 30-34mm tires. You can use this wheelset on both road and gravel.

Finally, don’t shave too much weight on your bike because this will usually reduce comfort. Lightweight saddle and handlebars can make your bike much lighter, but lightweight components will not absorb road vibrations well.

With this setup, you will have a bike that is light enough for road riding and fast enough for gravel riding. It won’t be the best at both, but it will be good enough. And it will be much cheaper than buying two bikes.

And none of that could happen without the tubes (or sealant) inside. Tubes are essential to both performance and comfort because it affects the suppleness of your tire and how well it deforms to road imperfections.

So let’s talk about the different types of tubes and which ones are the best, whether it’s butyl, latex, or TPU. We’ll outline the key differences between these types of inner tubes and give you our recommendation for when to use each one.

Speed and rolling resistance

As a cyclist, you want to ride fast, especially if you are competitive. And one of the biggest factors that decide how fast you can go on your bike is the rolling resistance of your tires and tubes.

Rolling resistance is the energy loss between the road surface and your tires that slows you down, the loss is mainly caused by friction, heat, and vibration by tire deflection. The higher the rolling resistance, the more power you will need to move forward. On the other hand, the less rolling resistance, the faster you can go with the same amount of power.  Rolling resistance is also affected by how fast you’re riding and how much you and your bike weigh. 

On a perfectly smooth road surface, tire choice won’t make a big difference because there’s no energy loss by friction and vibration. However, no roads are perfectly smooth, so your rolling resistance is affected by how good the tires and tubes are at deforming and absorbing road vibrations.

Latex is the most supple inner tube, giving them the least amount of rolling resistance, making them good for racing and rides where top speed is critical. Using a pair of latex tubes will save you up to 7.5 watts compared to standard butyl tubes.

TPU is better than standard butyl but not as good as latex in terms of rolling resistance.

Comfort and ride feel

Comfort is actually a side effect of low rolling resistance, so latex tubes will be the most comfortable compared to TPU and butyl tubes.

For some people, comfort is more important than speed. Either way, you will also want to use latex tubes. These tubes are more flexible and supple, which means they prevent some of the road chatter or vibration from affecting you. 

It’s kind of a toss-up between TPU and butyl, though. Some people prefer TPU, while others prefer butyl. It just depends on the brand and what you feel is more comfortable for you. 

Tube types aside, comfort is greatly affected by tire pressure. A latex tube inflated to a higher pressure than butyl or TPU will be less comfortable.

Weight

If you’re a weight weenie, you might always be searching for inexpensive ways to save weight on your bike. And TPU is one of the best ways to reduce your bike weight. This is also important for people who are doing a lot of hill climbing events.

The lightest tubes out there are TPU, and they can be as light as 22 grams. Typically, latex tubes are lighter than standard butyl tubes. However, some brands like Continental make a lightweight butyl (Continental Supersonic) that is even lighter than latex. Regular butyl tubes can weigh over 100 grams, so that’s a 156-gram weight saving.

Ease of installation

If you’re new to cycling and want to change your own tires, you don’t want tubes that can be easily punctured during the tire mounting process. For that reason, butyl is the best choice for beginners as it is the thickest out of the three and the most forgiving one.

There is a “correct way” to install tires without using too much force, and if not done correctly, latex and TPU tubes can get pinched by the tire beads and will blow immediately during inflation. Also, with latex and TPU you won’t be able to use tire levers because the slightest force by the lever will tear the tube.

Once you’re a master at changing tubes, though, you will be able to use latex and TPU tubes without any problem.

Durability and puncture protection

Speaking of punctures, while there aren’t too many tests saying which one is the best, common sense suggests that butyl tubes probably have the best puncture resistance because they are the thickest.

Butyl tubes are also the easiest ones to fix on the roadside with a patch kit. The other types, latex, and TPU can fail when they’re patched, so this can be a problem too out on the road.

If punctures and durability are your biggest concern, then you may want to consider going with tubeless tires. Tubeless tires can reseal themselves if you get a small puncture, and you don’t need to change the tube at all. 

Price

If you want to stick to a tight budget, butyl tubes are generally the cheapest and easiest to get. TPU is the most expensive of the bunch, but some TPU brands like RideNow are actually more affordable than some latex.

Latex is pretty costly as far as tubes go but if you are looking to upgrade your bike to gain more speed or save watts, switching to latex tubes is actually a pretty good deal dollar-per-watt-wise when you compare it to other upgrades. For example, the cost of a few tubes, even the most expensive ones, is far less than the cost of new rims, which can easily run over $1000. And they can save you about the same amount of watts.

Air pressure loss

It’s good practice to pump up your tires before every ride, especially if you are using latex tubes. Latex tubes lose air very quickly, and you are definitely going to need to pump them up before every ride.

TPU tubes will hold air better than latex, but nothing holds air as well as your butyl tires. They just seem to hold onto air the longest. If you’re a lightweight rider and pump your tires to really high pressure, you might only need to pump them up once a week with butyl. Regardless, you’ll still want to check your tire pressure religiously. 

Spare tubes

When you’re out on the road, you’re going to need a tube that is easy to install if you get a flat tire. For this reason, butyl is probably the best choice as a spare tube because it’s the easiest and most forgiving type of tube to install. 

You definitely don’t want to use latex tubes as ‘emergency’ tubes because they’re harder to install, especially when you’re tired and get a puncture on a long ride.

Storing spares can also be tricky for latex. Latex tubes are delicate so they might get torn for no good reason while inside your saddle bag. They aren’t compatible with all CO2 cartridges and pumps, as well, so you will need to take extra caution when buying.

If you have a compact bag and need tubes that pack into a smaller size, 3 TPU tubes quite literally take up the same space as 1 standard butyl tube. But then again, TPU tubes are harder to install than butyl tubes. So even though they take up less space, you need to make sure you can install TPU tubes without any trouble.

Lightweight butyl is a bit bigger than TPU, but it still takes less space than a normal butyl tube. If you’re not too confident installing TPUs and need the extra spares, lightweight butyl might be a good option.

So When to Use Which Tube?

With all that, how do you really know which tubes you should put in your tires?

We suggest going with normal butyl tubes for typical daily use, such as training or club rides. They’re the cheapest, easy to use and install on the road, and will hold a patch well if necessary. Think of butyl tubes as your go-to. They’re inexpensive and reliable. 

If you’re going to be racing, you might want to invest in latex tubes for race day. They’re a little expensive, but they’re also faster and will save you precious watts especially if you race on smooth tarmac or indoor tracks. Remember, they’re a lot less expensive than other upgrades you could make for a similar impact. 

For your hill climb races or events, consider TPU tubes. These will give you the lightest setup where weight is everything, especially on those steep climbs. Also, you might want to bring a TPU or two as your spare in addition to your butyl spare if you still have the space since they are very small when folded. Who knows, they might come in handy.